HE WHO DOES NOT KNOW HOW TO LOOK BACK AT WHERE HE CAME FROM WILL NEVER GET TO HIS DESTINATION.
During our hero’s time, traveling is very limited to the lay Filipino, since it was expensive. And also during that time, there were no airships that would hastily bring people to a certain place as we have today. The major transportation means were streamers, horse-power, trains, and foot. Rizal was not merely a sightseer but a traveler who studies the culture of the places he visits. He is also traveling to acquire more knowledge, most of which are sciences and literature.
This article will talk about the different travels of Rizal, the values and knowledge he acquired, friends he met during his travels, the places he visits and what happened there, and the special friends of Rizal. This will also deal with the fascination of Rizal and the rather bad opinions in the places he visits. Lastly, it will attempt to talk about the growth of our hero’s knowledge and acquiring skills that would later spell downfall to the 333 years of Spanish reign.
Childhood Travels
During Rizal’s birth her mother nearly died in delivery because of his big head. He promised to the virgin of Antipolo that if she would help her take Rizal to the sanctuary.
Our hero’s starting point, just like on any ventures there has to be a place to start, in his travel is his hometown Calamba, a town our hero loved so much. At Calamba, taking walks in the night when there was a moon takes Rizal in great pleasure.
The pilgrimage of Rizal in Antipolo was on June 6, 1868. With his father, he left Calamba to fulfill the vow of her mother to the virgin of the province when Jose was born. Doña Teodora couldn’t accompany them because she had given birth to Trinidad.
It was the first trip of our hero traversing Laguna de Bay and his pilgrimage to Antipolo. They rode then a casco (a barge), which was also his first time. He did not sleep the whole night because he was amazed by the watery expanse and the silence of the night.
After their trip at the Virgin of Antipolo, Rizal and Don Francisco pursued to Manila to visit Saturnina, who was then a boarding student at La Concordia College in Santa Ana. They went back to Calamba eventually.
Time to time, he would take short walks to Laguna de Bay, accompanied by his pet dog, and meditate at the shore.
The early travels of Rizal (although not far) develop his traveling side which would be evident as he grows and eventually would venture in greater horizons.
Schooling in Biñan
It was a Sunday afternoon in June, 1869, after a tearful parting from his family, he left Calamba for Biñan. He was accompanied by his brother Paciano. They rode in a carromata, a light, two-wheeled, boxlike vehicle usually drawn by a single native pony. After a one-half hours’ drive, they proceeded to their aunt’s house, where Jose was to lodge. It was almost night time when they arrived. At the same night, his cousin named Leandro went sightseeing in the town.
His life in Biñan is simple and methodical. There he experienced his first school brawl, painting lessons, and being the best student in his school.
Then the time came when he had to leave Biñan since his schooling has ended. He received a letter from his sister Saturnine telling him of the arrival of the steamer Talim that would take him from Biñan to Calamba. Upon reading the letter, he went to the town church and prayed, he even collected pebbles in the river for souvenirs and bade farewell to his teachers and classmates.
He left Biñan on a Saturday afternoon, December 17, 1870, a year and a half of schooling in that town. During his trip in the steamer Talim, which he was very excited about, he met a Frenchman which was a friend of his father who took care of him.
Schooling at Ateneo de Manila
After the martyrdom of Gom-Bur-Za, Jose went to Manila to study. He studied at Ateneo Municipal. During his first year in Ateneo, his first day started with a Holy Mass at the college chapel. He was at bottom of class when he started but became the ‘emperor’ at the end of the month.
At the end of the school year in March of 1873, Rizal returned to Calamba for it was summer vacation. He then visited his mother who was in prison during that time and was gladly embraced by his mother.
When the vacation ended, Rizal returned to Manila for his second year term in Ateneo. During his second year, Rizal had a prophecy that his mother will be freed, and in which it came true. Later, Rizal read Travels in the Philippines by Dr. Feodor Jagor, a German scientist-traveler who visited the Philippines. Rizal was impressed by the observations of Jagor like the defects of the Spanish colonization and someday Spain would lose the Philippines.
During his third year in Ateneo, he received the news that his mother was released from prison. And during his fourth year, he became an interno in Ateneo. One of his professors, Fr. Francisco de Paula Sanchez inspired Rizal to study harder and to write poetry. His schooling ended at 1877 wherein he graduated with highest honors in all his subjects.
Medical Studies at University of Santo Tomas
After finishing the first year of a course in Philosophy and Letters, he transferred to the medical course. During his stay at Santo Tomas, he won more literary laurels and other romances with pretty girls. At University of Santo Tomas, he pursued higher education, although her mother opposes his decision, his father and brother Paciano insists so.
Through his stay in UST, he was experienced the brutality of a Spanish officer, fell in love with Miss L, and wrote ‘To the Filipino Youth’.
In the summer month of May 1881, Rizal went on a pilgrimage to the town of Pakil, famous shrine of the Birhen Maria de los Dolores. He was accompanied by his sisters and their female friends. They took a Casco from Calamba to Pakil, Laguna. Rizal and his companions were fascinated by the famous turumba, the people dancing in the streets during the procession in honor of the miraculous Birhen Maria de los Dolores.
Course to Spain
His studies continued in UST until he was unhappy at the Dominican institution. After finishing the 4th year of his medical course in UST, Rizal, being disgusted with the method of instruction in the Dominican-owned University and the racial prejudice of Dominican professors against Filipino student, decided to study abroad. He predicted that his decision of studying abroad would not be favored by his parents; he did not asked their blessing.
And aside from studying in Spain he was on a secret mission. This mission was to observe keenly the life and culture, languages and customs, industries and commerce, and government and laws of the European nations in order to prepare himself in the great task of liberating his oppressed people from the Spanish tyranny.
The course to Spain is the start of Rizal’s travels.
Departure for Spain
Rizal’s departure for Spain was kept secret to avoid detection by the Spanish authorities and the friars. Even his own parents did not know because his mother would not allow him to do so. Only his older brother, his uncle, his sisters Neneng and Lucia, the Valenzuela family, Pedro Paterno, Mateo Evangelista, the Ateneo Jesuit fathers, and some intimate friends. The Jesuit priests gave him letters of recommendation to the members of their Society in Barcelona. He used the name Jose Mercado.
Before his departure he wrote a farewell letters for his beloved parents and another for his sweetheart Leonor Rivera.
On May 3, 1882, Rizal departed on board the Spanish steamer Salvadora bound for Singapore. With tears in his eyes and gloom in his head, he gazed the receding skyline of Manila. He then took his pencil and paper and sketched it as it vanished in view.
Singapore
(May 3, 1882) During the voyage he carefully observed the people and things on board the steamer. There were sixteen passengers. He was the only Filipino and the rest were Spaniards, British, and Indian Negroes. The captain of the ship, Donato Lecha befriended Rizal. To kill boredom of the voyage, Rizal played chess with his fellow passengers. He then defeated them many times, for he was a good chess player.
On May 9, the Salvadora docked at Singapore. He then stayed at Hotel de la Paz and spent two days on a sightseeing soiree of the city. He saw the famous Botanical Garden, the beautiful Buddhist templates, the busy shopping district, and the statue of Sir Thomas Stanford Raffles, who was the founder of Singapore.
To Colombo
After days of staying in Singapore, Rizal boarded the ship Djemnah, which was a French steamer and left Singapore for Europe on May 11. It was a larger and cleaner vessel which carried more passengers. French was spoken on board and Rizal attempted to converse with his fellow passengers in French, but he found out that his book French could not be understood, so he spoke a mixed Spanish-Latin and with the help sketching on paper. By conversing daily with the French passengers, he then was able to improve his knowledge of the French language.
On May 17, the Djemnah reached Point Galle, a seacoast town in southern Ceylon. Rizal was unimpressed by this town. The following day the voyage resumed towards Colombo, the capital of Ceylon. After a few hours of sailing, Rizal reached the city. Rizal was amazed by Colombo because of this scenic beauty and elegant building.
Through Suez Canal
From Colombo, the Djemnah continued the voyage crossing the Indian Ocean to the Cape coast of Africa. Rizal sighted the barren coast of Africa, for the first time, which he called an ‘inhospitable land but famous’.
The next stopover was in Aden. He found the city, hotter than Manila and was amused to see the camels for it was also his first time seeing them.
From Aden the ship proceeded to the city of Suez, the Red Sea terminal of Suez Canal. Upon arrival, Rizal disembarked and went sightseeing. What impressed him most was the beautiful moonlight which reminded him of Calamba and his family.
The Djemnah took five days to traverse the Suez Canal. Rizal was thrilled because it was his first trip through this canal which was build by Ferdinand de Lasseps. At Port Said, Rizal landed in order to see the interesting sights. He was fascinated to hear multi-racial inhabitants speaking a wide variety of language.
Naples and Marseilles
From Port Said, the ship proceeded on its way to Europe. On June 11, Rizal reached Naples. This city pleased Rizal because of its business activity, its lively people and its scenic beauty. He was fascinated by the Mouth Vesuvius, the Castle of ST. Telmo and other historic sights of the city.
The night of June 12, the steamer docked at the French harbor of Marseilles. Rizal bid farewell to his fellow passengers. He visited the famous Chateau d’lf where Dantes, was imprisoned. He stayed two and a half days in Marseilles.
Barcelona
On the afternoon of May 15, Rizal left Marseilles to proceed to Spain via train. He crossed the Pyrenees and stopped for a day at the frontier town of Port Bou.
After the passport inspection at Port Bou, Rizal continued his trip by rail, finally reaching Barcelona on June 16, 1882. His first impression of Barcelona was unfavorable. He thought of it as an ugly, dirty and its residents are inhospitable. Later, he changed his impression and liked the city. He found it as a great city, with an atmosphere of freedom and liberalism. He also found its people were open-hearted, hospitable, and courageous. He enjoyed promenading along Las Ramblas which was the famous street in Barcelona.
Filipinos in Barcelona were some of his classmates in Ateneo, welcomed him. They gave him a party at café Plaza de Cataluña. After toasts, Rizal in turn gave them the latest news and gossips in the Philippines.
In Barcelona, Rizal wrote a nationalistic essay entitled “Amor Patrio” which was his first written article on Spain’s soil. He then sent his article to Basilio Teodoro Moran, publisher of Diariong Tagalog. Basilio was deeply impressed by the article congratulated Rizal and asked Rizal to publish more articles.
While living in Barcelona, Rizal received bad news about the cholera outbreak ravaging Manila and the provinces. Many people died and more were dying daily. Sad news was that his beloved Leonor Rivera was getting thinner because of the absence of her loved one. Also, Paciano advised Rizal to continue his medical course in Madrid. Heeding his advice, Rizal left Barcelona in the fall of 1882 and proceeded to Madrid.
Madrid
On November 3, 1882, Rizal enrolled in the Universidad Central de Madrid. He took up took courses—Medicine and Philosophy and Letters. Aside from the two major courses, he also studied painting and sculpture in the Academy of Fine Arts of San Fernando; he took lessons in French, German, and English under private instructors; and assiduously practiced fencing and shooting in the Hall of Arms of Sanz y Carbonell.
Rizal lived a simple life in Madrid and knew that he came to Spain to study and prepare himself for the service of his fatherland. He budgets his money and time and never wasted a peseta for gambling, wine and women. On Saturday evening, he visits the home of Don Pablo Ortiga y Rey who lived with his son and daughter. Don Pablo has been city mayor of Manila.
Rizal then had a love affair with Consuelo Ortiga y Perez, the daughter of Don Pablo. Rizal, being a lonely man in a foreign country and far from his natal land, was attracted by Consuelo’s beauty and vivacity. Their love did not flourish because he was still engaged to Leonor Rivera and a friend of Rizal is also in-love with Consuelo.
First Visit to Paris
On June 1883, Rizal left Madrid to visit Paris. He stayed at the Hotel de Paris but then moved to a cheaper hotel. Like all tourists, Rizal was charmingly titillated by the attractive scenery of Paris such as the beautiful boulevards, the Opera House, the Place de la Concorde, the Arch of Triumph, the Bois de Boulogne, the Madelaine Church, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, the Column of Vendome, the Invalides, and the Versailes. Rizal closely observed the French way of life and spending many hours at the museums.
In Spain, he became close with prominent Spanish liberal and republican Spaniards, who were mostly Masons. Rizal was impressed by the way the Spanish Masons openly and freely criticized the government policies and lambasted the friars. In March 1883, he joined the Masonic lodge called Acacia in Madrid. His reason for joining was to secure Freemasonry’s aid in his fight against the friars in the Philippines. Later he was transferred to Lodge Solidaridad where he became a Master Mason on November 15, 1890. Still later, he was awarded the diploma as Master Mason by Le Grand Orient de France in Paris.
After departure for Spain, things turned from bad to worse in Calamba. Harvests failed on account of drought and locusts. Also the Dominican-owned hacienda increased the rentals of the lands cultivated by the Rizal family. Due to these crises, allowances of Rizal were many times late or sometimes never arrived, causing too much suffering to him.
And on November 20, 21 and 22, 1884, Rizal was involved in student demonstrations. They were fighting for Dr. Miguel Morayta who proclaimed that “the freedom of science and the teacher”. Such liberal view was condemned by the Catholic bishops of Spain.
On June 21, 1884 Rizal completed his medical course in Spain. He was conferred the degree of Licentiate in Medicine by the Universidad Central de Madrid. In the next academic year, he studied and passed al subjects leading to the degree of Doctor of Medicine. Rizal also finished his studies in Philosophy and Letters with excellent ratings.
Paris to Berlin
After completing his studies in Spain, Rizal went to Paris and Germany for his specialization in ophthalmology. He chose this course of medicine because he wanted to cure his mother’s growing eye ailment. He still hasn’t forgotten his ‘secret mission’—to observe the customs and lifestyle of the Europeans so that someday he will render service to his fatherland.
In 1885, after completing his studies at Central University of Madrid, he went to Paris in order to acquire more knowledge in ophthalmology. He was 24 then. He stopped over at Barcelona, on his way to Paris, to visit his friend Maximo Viola who is also a medical student and a member of a rich family in Bulacan. And on the November of that year, Rizal was living in Paris where he sojourned for about four months. He worked as an apprentice of Dr. Louis de Weckert, who is a then, a leading French ophthalmologist. And with his master, his knowledge in ophthalmology improved.
While not working at Dr. Weckert’s clinic, Rizal visited his friends, such as the family of Pardo de Taveras, Juan Luna and Felix Resurreccion, Hidalgo.
Rizal spent many happy hours in the studio of Luna. Luna discussed with Rizal various problems on art and improved his own painting technique. Rizal posed to some painting of Luna. He was one of the Egyptian priests in Luna’s painting “The Death of Cleopatra”.
At Heidelberg
Rizal left Paris on February 1, 1886, after acquiring enough experience in the clinic of Dr. Weckert. He was set to go to Germany. He visited Strasbourg and other German towns.
On February 3, 1886, he arrived in Heidelberg, a historic city in Germany famous for its old university and romantic surroundings. He lived in a boarding house with some German law students. The German students found out that Rizal was a good chess player and made him a member of the Chess Player’s Club. After a few days, he was transferred to a boarding house which was near University of Heidelberg. He worked at the University Eye Hospital under the direction of Dr. Otto Becker and attended the lectures of Doctor Becker and Prof. Wilhelm Kuehne at the university.
At weekends he visited the scenic spots around Heidelberg which includes the Heidelberg Castle, the romantic Neckar Rivera, the theater, and the old churches. Rizal noticed that the German Catholics and the Protestants practiced ecumenism wherein they live together in harmony and cordiality.
On April 22, 1886, spring on Heidelberg, he wrote a poem to the beautiful blooming flowers at the Neckar River. Among those was his favorite flower—the forget-me-not.
Rizal then spent three-month summer vacation at Wilhelmsfeld, a mountainous village close to Heidelberg. He stayed at the vicarage of a kind Protestant pastor, Dr. Karl Ullmer. He was very delighted in his stay at the Ullmers.
On July 31, 1886, Rizal wrote his first letter in German to Professor Ferdinand Blumentritt. Rizal heard that Blumentritt was interested in the Philippine languages. Along with the letter was a book entitled Aritmetica. Delighted with Rizal, Blumentritt send gift books to Rizal. This marked the beginning of their long and frequent correspondence.
Rizal was fortunate to be sojourning in Heidelberg when the famous University of Heidelberg held its fifth centenary celebration on August 6 of 1886. It was three days before his departure and he was sad because he had come to love the land and the beautiful city.
Leipzig and Dresden
On August 9, 1886, three days after the fifth centenary of the University of the Heidelberg, Rizal left the city. He boarded a train and visited various cities of Germany until arriving in Leipzig on August 14, 1886. He attended some lectures in the University of Leipzig and befriended Professor Friedrich Ratzel, a famous German historian, and Dr. Hans Meyer, German anthropologist.
Rizal translated William Tell from German to Filipino so that Filipinos might know the story of that champion of Swiss independence. He also translated into Filipino Hans Christian Andersen’s Fairy Tales.
Cost of living in Leipzig is the cheapest in Europe so he stayed there for two months and a half. During his stay, he corrected some chapters in his second novel and also had time for exercise. He also worked as a proof-reader in a publishing firm and earning some money.
DresdenRizal left Leipzig to set course on Dresden on October 29, 1886. At Dresden, Rizal met Dr. Adolph Meyer, the director of the Anthropological and Ethnological Museum. He stayed only two days in the city. He heard the Holy Mass in a Catholic church which greatly impressed him, for he wrote “Truly I have never in my life heard a Mass whose music had greater sublimity and intonation”.
Morning of November 1, Rizal left Dresden by train reaching Berlin in the evening.
Berlin
Rizal liked Berlin because of its atmosphere which was very scientific and the absence of race prejudice. Also, here he met Dr. Feodor Jagor author of Travels in the Philippines, a book that Rizal admired because of its keen observances in the Philippine setting. Dr. Jagor in turn, introduced Rizal to Dr. Rudolf Virchow, a famous anthropologist and to his son, Dr. Hans Virchow, professor of Descriptive Anatomy. Rizal worked in the clinic of Dr. Karl Ernest Schweigger, a famous German ophthalmologist.
Rizal was the first Asian to be accorded with honors for being a member of the Anthropological Society, the Ethnological Society, and the Geographical Society of Berlin. Dr. Virchow recognized Rizal’s genius, invited him to give a lecture before the Ethnographic Society of Berlin. Rizal wrote a scholarly paper entitled Taglische Verkunst (Tagalog Metrical Art) which elicited favorable comments from all scientific quarters.
Rizal led a methodological life in Berlin. He worked as an assistant by day, and attended lectures at night. He kept himself physically fit by daily exercises and speaking German, French and Italian. Rizal took private lessons in the French language under Madame Lucie Cerdole in order to master the French language.
He spends his leisure moments touring the country sides of Berlin and observing the culture and life of the people. He also made sketches of the things he saw. About observing culture, Rizal greatly admired the German Yuletide custom, wherein Germans would take bushes from a pine tree and dress it up with lanterns, papers and candies. Another interesting custom in Germany is that, when a man has nobody to introduce him to the other guests, he bows his head to the guests and introduces himself to the other guests and shakes hands of everyone in the room.
Not all the experiences of Rizal in Germany were good, there is this one winter time wherein he lived in poverty because no money arrived from Calamba and he was flat broke. During that time, he only eats one meal a day and had to wash his clothes himself because he could not afford to pay the laundry. On Calamba, Paciano tried to raise money but crops have failed due to locusts and the sugar market collapsed.
Noli Me Tangere published in Berlin
Noli Me Tangere during Rizal’s stay in Berlin was unable to be published. But with the help of Maximo Viola, who gave him the necessary funds to publish the novel, Noli Me Tangere was published. Viola loaned Rizal money for publishing and for Rizal’s living expenses. With that, Rizal and Viola happily celebrated the Christmas of 1886 in Berlin.
During the printing of the Noli, the chief of police Berlin paid a sudden visit to Rizal’s boarding house. The chief asked for Rizal’s passport, but Rizal couldn’t show any. The chief told him to secure a passport within four days, otherwise he would be deported.
Rizal failed in obtaining his passport and presented himself at the German police office, politely apologizing for his failure. The police then told him that Rizal was suspected as a French spy because he came fro Paris and knew the language of the French people so well. Rizal explained in German to the police that he was not a French spy, but a Filipino physician and scientist. With that, he was allowed to stay freely in Germany.
On March 21, 1887, the Noli Me Tangere came off the printing press. Rizal immediately sent copies to his intimate friends, including Blumentritt, Dr. Antonio Jaena, Mariano Ponce, and Felix R. Hidalgo. As a token of his appreciation and gratitude, Rizal gave Viola the galley proofs of Noli carefully rolled around the pen that he used in writing. It also has a dedication “To my dear friend, Maximo Viola, the first to read and appreciate my work—Jose Rizal.”
Noli Me Tangere was solely dedicated to the Philippines. He described the Philippines as a patient with cancer that even with the most careful touch; it awakens in it the sharpest pains.
The friends of Rizal hailed the novel, appreciated its content and deeply touched and awakened by its fine truth. Of all the congratulatory letters received by Rizal about Noli, that from Blumentritt was significant. “First of all” wrote Blumentritt, “accept my cordial congratulations for your beautiful novel about customs which interests me extraordinarily. Your work, as we Germans say, has been written with the blood of the heart, and so the heart also speaks. I continue reading it with much interest…”
Grand Tour of Europe
After the publication of Noli, Rizal planned to visit the important places in Europe. Rizal received his money from Paciano worth 1,000 pesos. He immediately paid viola the sum of 300 pesos from his kind loan.
At dawn of May 11, 1887, Rizal and Viola left Berlin by train. Spring was in the air and Europe is blooming with flowers. Their destination was Dresden, “One of the best cities in Germany”.
Dresden
Rizal and Viola spent some time in Dresden. Their visit coincided with the regional floral exposition. Rizal studied different plants because he was interested in botany. They visited Dr. Adolph B. Meyer, who was overjoyed to see them. They also visited the Museum of Art and Rizal was deeply impressed by the painting of “Prometheus Bound”, a Greek mythological tragedy.
While strolling at the scene of the Floral Exposition, they met Dr. Jagor. Dr. Jagor advised them to wire Blumentritt of their coming because the old professor was of a nervous disposition and he might suffer a shock at their sudden visit.
Their next stopover was Teschen. Rizal and Viola sent a wire to Blumentritt, as suggested by Dr. Jagor.
Blumentritt and Leitmeritz
At 1:30 p.m. of May 13, 1887, the train with Rizal and Viola on board arrived at the railroad station of Leitmeritz, Bohemia. Professor Blumentritt waited for them in the station after he received the wire. He was carrying a pencil sketch of Rizal which the letter had previously sent him, so that he could identify his Filipino friend. He warmly welcomed Rizal and Viola.
For the first time, Rizal and Blumentritt met each other. They greeted each other in fluent German. Upon seeing the talented Rizal, the old professor immediately took him into heart, loving him as a son.
Rizal had beautiful memories of his visit to Leitmeritz. He enjoyed the warm hospitality and enjoyed the cooking of the professor’s wife Rosa. Blumentritt’s children were Dolores, Conrad, and Fritz. Blumentritt showed the scenic sights and historical spots of Leitmeritz.
One afternoon he invited them to a beer garden where the best beer of Bohemia was served. At the beer garden, they met the burgomaster or the town mayor. Blumentritt introduced the two to the burgomaster. Rizal talked in fluent German, for which the burgomaster and his friends were amazed.
On another afternoon, Rizal and Viola were invited to a meeting o the Tourists’ Club of Leitmeritz, of Blumentritt was secretary. The members of the society were amazed by the fluency of Rizal in German.
Rizal painted a portrait of the kind professor and gave it to him as a commemoration of his happy hours at the professor’s home.
Rizal also met another renowned scientist of Europe namely, Dr. Carlos Czepelak. Rizal had a nice conversation with the Polish scholar. Blumentritt also introduced Rizal to Professor Robert Klutschak, an eminent naturalist.
On their last night in Leitmeritz, Rizal and Viola, reciprocated Blumentritt’s hospitality with a banquet. On May 16, at 9:45 A.M., Rizal and Viola left Leitmeritz by train. Blumentritt and his family were at the railroad station to see them off, and they all shed tears in parting as the train departed. Rizal carried with him all the beautiful memories of his visit to Leitmeritz.
History City of Prague
After their stay at Leitmeritz, Rizal together with Viola visited the city of Prague. They carried recommendation letters from Blumentritt to Dr. Willkomm, a professor of natural history in the University of Prague. The kind-hearted professor together with his wife and daughters welcomed them and showed them the city’s historic spots.
Rizal and Viola visited the tomb of Copernicus, the museum of natural history, the bacteriological laboratories, the famous cave where San Juan Nepomuceno was imprisoned, and the bridge from which the saint was hurled into the river.
After their stay at the home of the Willkomms, Rizal and Viola left Prague and went to Brunn.
Queen of the Danube
On May 20, Rizal and Viola arrived in the beautiful Vienna. Famous in songs and story, this city very much fascinated Rizal because of its beautiful buildings, religions images and charm. Rizal and Viola presented a letter of recommendation, from Blumentritt, to Norfenfals, one of the greatest novelists in Europe during that time. The great novelist was impressed by Rizal’s genius. Later he spoke highly of Rizal.
Also in Vienna, Rizal received his lost diamond stickpin. It was found by a main in Hotel Krebs and was given to Blumentritt who, in turn, forwarded it to Rizal.
The two stayed at Hotel Metropole. They visited the city’s interesting places, such as churches, museums, art galleries, theaters and parks.
Lintz
On May 24, Rizal and Viola left Vienna on a river boat to see the beautiful sights of the Danube Rivera. As they both travel with boat, Rizal observed the different sights like the barges loaded with products, the flowers and plants growing along the river banks, the boats with families living on them, and the quaint villages on the riversides. They also noticed that the passengers were using paper napkins during meals.
To Rheinfall, To Salzburg, To Munich & Nuremberg
The river voyage ended in Lintz. They traveled overland to Salzburg and from there to Munich where they sojourned for a short time to savor the famous Munich beer, reputed to be the best in Germany.
From Munich they went to Nuremberg, an old city of Germany. Among the sights were the horrible torture machines used by the Inquisition, in which Rizal examined carefully. Viola and Rizal were greatly impressed by the manufacture of dolls in Nuremberg.
After Munich, they visited Ulm. The cathedral of this city was the largest and the tallest in all Germany. Viola related that he and Rizal climbed its many hundred steps. Viola getting dizzy, but Rizal was not.
From Ulm, they went to Stuttgart, Baden and then Rheinfall. At Rheinfall, they saw the waterfall which was the most beautiful waterfall of Europe.
Switzerland
From Rheinfall, they crossed the frontier to Schaffhausen, Switzerland. They stayed in this city from June 2 to 3, 1887. They then continued their tour to Basel, Bern, and Lausanne.
After sightseeing in Lausanne, Rizal and Viola left on a little boat, crossing the foggy Leman Lake to Geneva.
GenevaRizal and Viola visited Geneva. This Swiss city is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe which was visited by world tourist every year. The people of Geneva were linguists, speaking French, German, and Italian. Rizal conversed with them in these three languages.
Rizal and Viola also went boating on the lake. Rizal showed his rowing prowess which he acquired during his boyhood days in Calamba.
On June 19, 1887, it was Rizal’s 26th birthday and treated Viola to a blow-out. Rizal and Viola spent fifteen days in Geneva. On June 23, they parted ways. Viola decided to return to Barcelona while Rizal continued his tour to Italy.
Madrid Exposition
During his tour in Europe, Rizal received sad news from his friends in Madrid of the deplorable conditions of primitive Igorots who were exhibited in this expositions, some of whom died and whose clothing are inappropriate for the climate of Madrid, and crude weapons were objects of mockery and laughter by the Spanish people and press. Rizal being a champion of human dignity was outrageous.
Italy
Rizal went to Italy. He visited Turin, Milan, Venice and Florence. On June 27, 1887, he reached Rome. He was thrilled by the sights and memories of the Eternal City—Rome.
On June 29th, Rizal visited for the first time the Vatican, the “City of the Popes” and the capital Christendom. He was impressed by the magnificent edifices, particularly of St. Peter’s Church which was also his feast day during that time.
Every night, after sightseeing the whole day, Rizal returned to his hotel, very tired. “I am tired as a dog,” he wrote to Blumentritt, “but I will sleep as a god”.
After a week of staying in Rome, he prepared to return to the Philippines. He had already written to his father that he was coming home.
First Homecoming
From 1882 to 1887, Rizal was in Europe studying. There he was allured, fascinated and have all the beautiful memories throughout his sojourn. But this will not make Rizal forget his fatherland and his nationality. After 5 years of memorable adventure in Europe, he returned to the Philippines in August 1887 and practiced medicine in Calamba.
Although his life is threatened because his Noli Me Tangere caused uproar especially among the friars, he insists on returning home. He has his reasons of coming home, one is that he wants to operate his mother’s eyes; another is that he wants to know how his novel affected the life of the Filipino.
Rizal left Rome by train for Marseilles and on July 3, 1887 he boarded the steamer Djemnah which was the same steamer he boarded five years ago. The steamer was enroute to the Orient via the Suez Canal. Rizal saw this canal for the second time.
On July 30, he transferred to another steamer in Saigon to steamer Haiphong which was bound to Manila. On August 2, the steamer left Saigon for Manila.
Arrival at Manila
On August 5, the Haiphong arrived in Manila and he went ashore with a happy heart for he was once again in Filipino soil. He stayed in the city for a short time to visit some friends and observed that Manila was the same five years ago.
Home in Calamba
On August 8, he returned to Calamba. His family welcomed him affectionately. The rejoicing returns over when his family became worried of his safety. Paciano did not leave him during the first days because he wants to protect him from any enemy assault. Even his own father would not let him go out alone.
In Calamba he established a medical clinic and his first patient was his mother, who was that time almost blind. The news of a great doctor from Germany spread far and wide. Patients from Manila and the provinces flocked to Calamba to have a consultation to Rizal. His fees were reasonable, within a month he was able to earn about 900 pesos.
He also opened a gymnasium for young folks where he introduced European sports. He tried to interest his townies in gymnastics, fencing, and shooting and discourage cockfights and gambling.
Rizal failed to see Leonor Rivera, his loved one.
A few weeks after his arrival, he received a letter from Governor General Emilio Terrero requesting him to come to Malacañan Palace. Rizal went to Manila and appeared before Gov.Gen. Terrero and denied the acquisitions of the Governor General. He explained that it was merely an exposition of truth, but he did not advocate rebellious ideas. The governor was pleased by his explanation and asked for a copy of Noli so that he could read it. Rizal had no copy that time but promised it to the governor general once he secured a copy of it.
Rizal found a copy in the hands of a friend. He was able to give it to governor general Terrero. The governor general knew that Rizal’s life was in jeopardy because the friars were powerful. He then assigned a young Spanish lieutenant as a bodyguard of Rizal.
Farewell Again
Rizal’s novel caused uproar among the friars. Anonymous threats against Rizal’s life were received by his parents. Feeling uneasy with the situation, they advised him to go away for his life was in danger.
Governor General Terrero summoned Rizal and advised him to leave the Philippines for his own good. He was giving Rizal a change to escape the fury of the friar’s wrath.
Rizal really needs to go because he could not disobey the governor general’s orders. Rizal left Calamba in 1888.
Hong Kong
Haunted by enemies and threatened by friars, Rizal was forced to leave Philippines for the second time. It was February 1888 then. Rizal at 27 was an embittered victim of human iniquities, a disillusioned dreamer, and a frustrated reformer. This was the start of Rizal’s second travel.
On February 3, 1888, after six months of stay in Calamba, Rizal left Manila for Hong Kong on board the Zafiro. He was sad and sick during the crossing of the choppy China Sea. He did not get off the ship when it made a stopover at Amoy, because he was sick, it was raining and the city was dirty. He arrived in Hong Kong on February 8.
In Hong Kong, Rizal stayed at Victoria Hotel. He was welcomed by the Filipino community in Hong Kong. During this time, a Spaniard, Jose Varanda, was shadowing Rizal’s movements in Hong Kong. It is believed that he was ordered to spy on Rizal.
Macao
On February 18, Rizal accompanied by Basa, boarded the ferry steamer Kiu-Kiang for Macao. He was surprised to see a familiar figure among the passengers—Sainz de Varanda.
Rizal described Macao as a small, low and gloomy. There are many junks, sampans, but few steamers, it looks sad and is almost dead-like.
The two stayed in at the home of Don Juan Francisco Lecaros who was married to a Portuguese lady.
During his two day stay in Macao, he visited the theater, casino, cathedral and churches, pagodas and botanical gardens and the bazaars. He also saw the famous Grotto of Camoens.
In the evening of February 19, he witnessed a Catholic procession wherein the devotees were dressed in blue and purple dresses and were carrying unlighted candles.
On February 20, Rizal and Basa returned to Hong Kong on board the ferry steamer Kiu-Kiang.
Hong Kong
A Landmark in Honor of Rizal’s Visit in Hong KongRizal stayed in Hong Kong for two weeks. There he studied the Chinese way of life, language, drama and customs.
Rizal noticed some experiences and wrote them in his diary. Some of them include the noisy celebration of the Chinese New Year which lasted from February 11th to 13th. There were continuous explosion of firecrackers and he himself fired many at the window of his hotel. He also observed the boisterous Chinese theater, the marathon Lauriat party, which was the longest meal in the world; the Dominican Order was the richest religious order in Hong Kong, and the cemeteries.
On February 22, 1888, Rizal left Hong Kong on board the Oceanic, an American steamer and his destination was Japan. Rizal did not like the meals on board but liked the ship because it was clean and efficiently managed.
Japan
Among the happiest moments of Rizal in his life was his sojourn in the Land of the Cherry Blossoms. He stayed in Japan for one month and a half from February 28 to April 13, 1888. He was charmed by the natural beauty of Japan, the manners of the Japanese people and the picturesque of shrines. He also fell in love with a Japanese girl, who loveliness infused joy and romance in his sorrowing heart.
Morning of Tuesday, February 28, 1888, Rizal arrived at Yokohama and stayed in the Grand Hotel. The following day, he moved to Tokyo and took a room at the Tokyo Hotel where he stayed from March 2 to 7. He was impressed by the city of Tokyo.
After his arrival in Tokyo, Rizal was visited by Juan Perez caballero, secretary of Spanish Legation. The latter invited him to live at the Spanish Legation. Rizal knew that this was the Spanish government’s way of monitoring Rizal but he accepted anyways.
On March 7, he moved out of Tokyo Hotel and lived at the Spanish Legation. He and Perez Caballero became good friends and described him as a young, fine and an excellent writer.
During his first day in Tokyo, Rizal could talk the Japanese language. He had a hard time for shopping for he could not be understood and children laughed at him. With his situation, Rizal decided to study the Japanese language. He was able to speak within a few days.
At Japan he studied the Japanese drama, arts, music, and judo. He also visited museums, libraries, art galleries, and shrines. He visited Meguro, Nikko, Hakone, Miyanoshita, and the charming villages of Japan.
During one time, Rizal went to the park and heard the Tokyo band playing a classical work of Strauss. He was impressed by the great performances of the Western music. He thought to himself how admirable their renditions are and wondered how they have assimilated the modern European music to the extent of playing the beautiful masterpieces of the European composers so well. The band stopped playing and to his surprised they were speaking Tagalog. He approached them and conversed with them. The musicians were delighted and also surprised to meet him.
Rizal was greatly impressed by Japan. Among of which are the natural beauty of the country, the cleanliness and politeness of the people, the picturesque dress and simple charm of the Japanese women, there were few thieves in Japan, and beggars were rarely seen in the city streets. However, he disliked the rickshaws drawn by men.
Sayonara Japan and Seiko Usui
Rizal met a pretty Japanese girl. Her name was Seiko Usui. Rizal fell in love with Seiko. He affectionately called her O-Sei-San. Both found happiness in each other’s company. Affinity of interest in the arts paved the way for their romance. Rizal saw in lovely O-Sei-San the qualities of his ideal womanhood—beauty, charm, modesty, and intelligence.
O-Sei-San’s beauty and affection almost tempted Rizal to settle down in Japan. At the same time, he was offered a good job by the Spanish Legation. But then, his love for the fatherland and his mission to free his oppressed people made him think again.
Rizal’s great love for Seiko Usui and Japan will be memories that he will always cherish, but it was his time to go.
On April 13, 1888, Rizal boarded the Belgic, an English steamer, at Yokohama, bound for the United States. He left Japan with a heavy heart for he knew that he will never see this beautiful land again, so as his beloved O-Sei-San. His sojourn in Japan for 45 days was one of the happiest interludes of his life.
Across the Pacific
Despite his sorrowing heart, Rizal enjoyed the pleasant trans-Pacific voyage to the United States. One day one of the children on board the ship asked Rizal if he knew a man in Manila named “Richal”. Rizal replied that he was “Richal”. In his amazement, the boy rushed to his mother and informing her that the famous man is their fellow passenger, the mother felt proud that they were travelling with a celebrity.
Another passenger Rizal befriended on board was Tetcho Suehiro, a Japanese journalist, novelist and a champion of human rights, who was forced by the Japanese government to leave the country. He was alone at the beginning of the voyage for he knew that he was only person in the ship who speaks Japanese. Rizal knew about this and befriended him and acted as his interpreter during their long trip from Yokohama to San Francisco, across the U.S. to New York until they reached London, where they parted.
Rizal told Tetcho the story of his life and his mission to emancipate his oppressed fellowmen from Spanish tyranny. Tetcho was fascinated by Rizal’s admirable character and influenced him to fortify his own crusade for human rights in his own country.
On December 1, 1888 after a last handshake of their eight months of friendship and bidding each other goodbye, Rizal and Tetcho parted ways—never to meet again.
Visit to the United States
Rizal first saw America on April 28, 1888. His arrival was marred by racial prejudice for he saw the discriminatory treatment of the Chinese and the Negroes by the white Americans.
Rizal had good and bad impressions of the United States. The good were the material progress of the country, the drive and energy of the American people, the natural beauty of the land, the high standard of living and the opportunities for better life offered to poor immigrants. On bad impression was the lack of racial equality. There existed racial prejudice which was inconsistent with the principles of democracy and freedom of which Americans talk so much but do not practice.
Rizal’s trip to America started on April 28, 1888 to May 16, 1888.
San Francisco
The steamer Belgic docked at the San Francisco on Saturday morning, April 28, 1888. All passengers were not allowed to land. The American health authorities placed the ship under quarantine on the ground it came from the Far east where a cholera epidemic was alleged to be raging. Rizal was surprised because he knew there was no Cholera epidemic at that time. He joined other passengers protesting the unjustifiable action of the health authorities. Later, the American consul in Japan had given the ship a clean bill of health.
He soon discovered that the quarantine was motivated by politics because the ship was carrying 653 Chinese coolies.
On Friday afternoon, May 4, 1888, he was permitted to go ashore and then he registered for a room at the Palace Hotel. Rizal stayed in San Francisco for two days from May 4 to 6.
On May 6, Rizal left San Francisco for Oakland, nine miles across San Francisco Bay by ferry boat. On May 7, he awoke and had a good breakfast at Reno, Nevada.
On May 8, Rizal was in the state of Utah. From Ogden, they went to Denver.
On May 9, they were passing through the mountains and rocks along the river. They woke up at Colorado, which he described as a state with a lot of trees.
On May 10, they arrived at Nebraska then to Omaha, which was a big city. They passed the Missouri River and arrived at Illinois.
On May 11, they arrived at Chicago. He observed that every store in Chicago are selling cigars and has Indian figures.
May 12 they arrived at Wagner Car which he described as beautiful and well populated. They arrived at the English territory in the afternoon, and saw the Niagara Falls. They had a stopover to see some sights and went to the side below the Niagara Falls.
On May 13, they arrived at Albany which was a big city. The Hudson River runs along and carries many boats. The sights here were beautiful although more solitary than those of Pasig.
The grand transcontinental trip ended on Sunday, May 13, at 11:00 A.M.
On Sunday morning, May 13, Rizal arrived at New York, which marks the end of his trip to America. He stayed three days in this city and visited some scenic and historic places. He was awed and inspired by the memorial of George Washington.
On May 16, 1888 he left New York for Liverpool on board the City of Rome. He was onboard in a steamer which was “the second largest ship in the world”—the Great Eastern. He saw the colossal Statue of Liberty on Bedloe Island as the ship steamed out of New York.
Once Again in London
Rizal lived in London from May, 1888 to March 1889. He chose this English city because of three reasons:
1. To improve his knowledge of the English language,
2. To Study and annotate Morga’s Sucesos de las Islas Filipinas, which he heard to be available in the British Museum and
3. London was a safe place from the attacks of Spanish tyranny.
Across the Atlantic
The trans-Atlantic voyage was a pleasant one. He won many friends of different nationalities on board the palatial City of Rome because of his ability as linguist. Rizal entertained the passengers with his marvelous skill with the yo-yo. He used it as an offensive weapon instead of a toy.
Rizal arrived at Liverpool, England on May, 1888. He stayed one day in Liverpool spending the night at Adelphi Hotel. He described it as a big and beautiful city.
Life in London
On May 25, 1888, Rizal went to London. For a short time, he stayed at the home of Dr. Antonio Ma. Regidor– a lawyer in London. By the end of May he was a boarder of the Beckett family. His home was located near public parks and within easy walking distance to the British Museum. He spent most of his time in the British Museum studying the book of Morga’s Sucesos and other rare historical books about the Philippines.
Gertrude Beckette, Rizal's Love Interulde in LondonHe spent his Sundays at the house of Dr. Rost, the librarian of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and an authority on Malayan languages and customs. Dr. Rost was greatly impressed by Rizal’s knowledge and character and gladly recommended him to the authorities of the British Museum. He called Rizal “a pearl of a man”.
For ten months, Rizal was deeply immersed in his historical studies in London. During that time, his compatriots in Spain were waging the crusade for Philippine reforms.
Visiting Paris & SpainIn September of 1888, he visited Paris for a week for him to search for more historical materials in the Bibliotheque Nationale. He was entertained by Juan Luna and his wife. After reading over the old books, he returned to London.
On December 11, 1888, he went to Spain visiting Madrid and Barcelona. He contacted his compatriots and surveyed the political situation. For the first time, he met Marcelo H. Del Pilar and Mariano Ponce, the two titans of Propaganda Movement. He exchanged ideas with these new friends and promised to cooperate in the fight for reforms.
Christmas in London
Rizal returned to London on December 24 and spent Christmas and New Year’s Day with the Becketts. Rizal liked Christmas Eves because it reminded him of many good days of his infancy and also Christ was born. Rizal received from Mrs. Beckett a book entitled The Life and Adventures of Valentine Vox, the Ventriloquist.
During his stay at London, he became the honorary president of a patriotic society cooperating for reforms called Asociacion La Dolidaridad. It was inaugurated on December 31, 1888. Rizal also wrote his first article in La Solidaridad, a patriotic newspaper founded by Graciano Lopez Jaena, entitled Los Agricultores Filipinos which was published on March 25, 1889.
Rizal wrote several works while in London. These writings includes: La Vision del Fray Rodriguez, Letter to the Young Women of Malolos, and he also contributed some articles to Dr. Rost’s journal entitled Specimens of Tagal Folklore and Two Eastern Fables. Rizal also fell in-love with one of the three Beckett sisters—Gertrude.
On March 19, 1889, Rizal bade goodbye to the Beckett family and left London for Paris. He was sad as he crossed the English Channel for he cherished many beautiful memories in London.
Universal Exposition of 1889
Rizal went to Paris on the spring of 1889. The city was full of excitement because of the Universal Exposition and it was hard to look for an inn to stay. The landlords are taking advantage of the great demand for living quarters, raised the rents of their rooms. For a short time, Rizal lived in the house of his friend, Valentin Ventura. There he also published his annotated edition of Morga’s book. He transferred from one hotel to another. Finally, he lived in a little room together with two other Filipinos—Capitan Justo Trinidad and Jose Albert.
On June 24, 1889, Juan Luna and Paz Pardo de Tavera had a baby girl. They made Rizal as her baptismal godfather and named her Maria de la Paz.
Rizal was fascinated by the Universal Exposition of Paris. It opened on May 5, 1889. The greatest attraction of the exposition was the Eiffel Tower, which was built by Alexander Eiffel. Rizal also participated in an art competition but got no prize.
During one time, Rizal together with the Kidlat Club was amazed by the proud American Indians. He told his friends “they are not ashamed of their name. Let us be like them…”
Another society founded by Rizal in Paris was the R.D.L.M. Society. The aim of the secret society is the propagation of all useful knowledge in the Philippines. Another aim is the redemption of the Malay race.
During his stay in Europe, he was deeply immense by his historical studies about the Philippines. Rizal wants to learn more about the history of his Fatherland.
Another work of Rizal was The Indolence of the Filipinos. He also became a member of “International Association of Filipinologists” with Dr. Ferdinand Blumentritt as the President. In the fall of 1889, he wrote another satirical work entitled Por Telefono; it is a reply to Fr. Salvador Font, who masterminded the banning of his Noli.
December 25, 1889, Rizal celebrated his Christmas in Paris. Rizal and Jose Albert planned to have a sumptuous Christmas dinner. They scraped enough money to celebrate Yuletide. They prepared a Christmas dinner with friend chicken, rice and vegetables.
Shortly after the New Year, Rizal made a short visit to London. His purpose may be because he wants to see Gertrude Beckette for the last time, and check up his annotated edition of Morga’s Sucesos.
By the mid of January 1890, he was back in Paris, during that time influenza was epidemic throughout Paris. He complained of a terrible headache but he was not stricken with flu.
Belgian Brussels
On January 28, 1890, Rizal left Paris for Brussels, the capital of Belgium. Rizal was accompanied by Jose Albert when he moved to Brussels. They lived in a boarding house on 38 Rue Philippe Champagne which was run by two Jaceby sisters.
In Brussels Rizal was busy writing his second novel “El Filibusterismo”. Aside from writing its chapters, he wrote articles for La Solidaridad. He also spent some of his time in a medical clinic, and had gymnastics at the gymnasium. Rizal stayed with Jose Alejandro at the boarding house when Jose Albert left the city.
Rizal loved his own native language. He was the first to advocate the Filipinization of its orthography. As an example the Tagalog letters k and w should be used instead of the Spanish c and o.
Rizal received news that the Filipinos in Spain were destroying the good image of their nation y gambling too much. He wrote a letter to the Filipinos in Spain and the gambling Filipino and the gambling Filipinos in Madrid were angry when they learned of Rizal’s moralizing.
Rizal also received letters from home that worries him. The Calamba agrarian trouble was getting worse. The management of the Dominican hacienda continually raised the land rents.
In the face of the sufferings which afflicted his family, Rizal planned to go home. He could not stay in Brussels writing a book while his family was being persecuted.
Rizal ignored the warning of his friends and did not change his plans.
But there are some things that cheered Rizal’s life. One was the summertime festival of Belgium. Second was his romance with Petite Jacoby, the pretty niece of his landladies.
Madrid
Rizal’s life in Madrid could be described as full of misfortunes. In August 1890, Rizal arrived in Madrid. He tried all legal means to seek justice for his family and the Calamba tenants, but to no avail. Also, Leonor Rivera married a British engineer.
Rizal sought the help of the Filipino colony to protest the injustices of the Dominicans against the Calamba folks. More terrible news reached Rizal in Madrid, his brother-in-law; Silvestre received a copy of eviction order by the Dominicans. He also learned of the deportation of Paciano, Antonio, Silvestre, Teong and Dandoy to Mindoro. He further learned from Saturnina’s letter that their parents had been forcibly ejected from their home.
Adding to his misfortunes was the death of Jose Panganiban—his co-worker in the Propaganda Movement.
Rizal almost had a duel with Antonio Luna when Luna was saying unsavory remarks about Nellie. Rizal heard him and challenged him into a duel. But later on, they realized that their duel would damage their cause in Spain.
Biarritz
Rizal took a vacation in the resort city of Biarritz on the fabulous French Riviera. He was the guest of the Boustead family. It was in Biarritz where he had finished the last chapter of his second novel, El Filibusterismo.
Rizal was in-love with Nellie Boustead, a daughter of the Boustead family. With the encouragement of his close friends, Rizal courted Nelly, who in turn, reciprocated his affection. Rizal had plans of marrying Nellie, but failed. Nelly wanted Rizal to espouse Protestantism before their marriage. Rizal, being a man of firm conviction, refused. Another problem was Nelly’s mothers, who do not wish to entrust Nelly to a man who was poor in material things.
On March 30, 1891, Rizal proceeded to Paris by train. Rizal retired from the Propaganda Movement and retired also from La Solidaridad.
In Brussels Rizal worked day after day revising the finished manuscript of El Filibusterismo and readied it for printing.
Ghent
On July 5, 1891, Rizal left Brussels for Ghent a famous university city in Belgium. He stayed at Ghent because the cost of printing is cheaper. Rizal had limited funds and lived in a cheap boarding house.
After his arrival, Rizal searched for the printing shop that could give him the lowest quotation for the publication of his novel. He found out that F. Meyer-Van Loo Press was willing to print his book on installment basis. He pawned all his jewels to pay the down payment and early partial payments. He had received money from Basa and 200 pesos from Arias for the copies of Morga’s Sucesos which were sold in Manila.
Ventura learned of Rizal’s predicament and immediately sent him the necessary funds. With his financial aid, the printing of Fili was resumed. The El Filibusterismo was dedicated to the martyrdom of the Gom-Bur-Za.
Hong Kong
After the publication of El Filibusterismo, Rizal left Europe for Hong Kong. He lived there from November, 1891 to June 1892.
On October 18, 1891, Rizal boarded the steamer Melbourne in Marseilles bound for Hong Kong. During the voyage he began writing his third novel in Tagalog. Makamisa, Dapitan, and another untitled novel were some of the unfinished novels of Rizal.
Rizal described his trip as “heavenly”. In the ship were over 80 passengers—mostly Europeans, and two Spaniards who were going to Amoy. Rizal was the only Asian among them, and amazed his fellow passengers with his knowledge of many languages.
Rizal arrived in Hong Kong on November 20, 1891. He was welcomed by Jose Basa and lived at Number 5 D’ Aguilar Street where he also opened his medical clinic.
Before the Christmas of 1891, he was gladdened by the arrival of his father, brother and Silvestre Ubaldo in Hong Kong. Not long afterwards, his mother and sisters Lucia, Josefa and Trinidad also arrived. This Christmas was one of the happiest moments in Rizal’s life for he had a happy family reunion.
Rizal also practiced his ophthalmology in Hong Kong. There he became a well-known medical practitioner.
Second Homecoming
In May, 1892, Rizal made up his mind to return to Manila. He gave two letters, which were sealed and inscribed on it “to be opened after my death”, to his friend Dr. Marques for safekeeping.
At noon of June 26, 1892, Rizal and his sister Lucia arrived in Manila. He stayed in Hotel de Oriente which was facing the church of Binondo.
On June 27, Rizal boarded a train in Tutuban Station and visited his friends. And on Wednesday July 6, Rizal went to Malacañan Palace to resume his series of interviews. The governor general then presented to him some printed leaflets (Pobres Frailes) which were allegedly found in Lucia’s pillow cases. Rizal denied having those leaflets because they were thoroughly searched upon their arrival from Hong Kong and was found clean. Despite his denial and insistent demand for investigation he was placed under arrest and escorted to Fort Santiago.
July 15, 1892, Rizal was brought to the steamer Cebu which was sailing for Dapitan. On the 17th of July, Rizal was handed over to Captain Ricardo Carnicero, the commandant of Dapitan. His exile in Dapitan lasted until July 31, 1896, a period of four years.
Dapitan
Rizal stayed in Dapitan for a period of four years. He was suppose to live in the Jesuit Church but insisted on living in the house of Captain Carnicero. The two became close and befriended each other. Carnicero was impressed with the fine qualities and personalities of Rizal.
On September 21, 1892, Rizal won the Manila Lottery with a sum of 6,200 pesos. He shared his winnings to his father and to his friend Basa, and the rest he invested by purchasing agricultural lands.
During his stay in Dapitan, he had debates with Father Pastells about religion. They exchanged views and commented on each other. In spite of their religious differences, Rizal l and Pastells remained good friends.
He was also able to meet again his teacher from Ateneo—Father Sanchez. Father Sanchez was assigned by Father Pastells to persuade Rizal to discard his “errors of religion”. Rizal and Father Sanchez had theological arguments but all efforts of Sanchez were in vain.
Rizal practiced medicine in Dapitan and had many patients. He gave free medicine to the poor. He was also able to operate his mother’s right eye. Rizal was also interested in the use of medicinal plants which he used to some of his poor patients.
Rizal also made a Water System for Dapitan which modern engineers today found it very marvelous. He also became a teacher and taught to the young boys of Dapitan. He even made a project to beautify the town plaza.
Rizal was also a farmer. On his farms, he introduced modern methods of agriculture which he observed in Europe and America. He encourages the Dapitan farmers to discard their primitive system of tillage and adopt the modern methods. He imported some agricultural machinery from the United States.
Rizal had a relationship with Josephine Bracken. They first met when Josephine accompanied his father to the clinic of Rizal. Their relationship lasted for one month until they decided to marry. The two lived happily in Dapitan. They had a son, but only lived for three hours.
On July 31, 1896, Rizal’s exile in Dapitan came to an end. Rizal, together, with Josephine, Narcisa, Angelica and his three nephews and six pupils boarded the steamer España. Almost all the Dapitan townies were at the shore and bid him goodbye.
Last Trip Abroad
August 1, Rizal anchored at Dumaguete. He visited some friends and former classmates. The España left Dumaguete at about 1:00 p.m. and reached Cebu the following morning. Rizal was fascinated by the entrance of Cebu.
On August 3, Rizal left Cebu and continued to Iloilo. Then sailed to Capiz and towards to Romblon until proceeding to Manila.
He missed the ship going to Spain but on the midnight of the same day he was able to right the Spanish cruiser Castilla.
On September 2, Rizal was transferred to the steamer Isla de Panay which was sailing for Barcelona, Spain. The next morning the steamer left Manila Bay.
The steamer arrived at Singapore in the evening of September 7. The passengers including Rizal went shopping and to see some scenery. Rizal observed that there were more Chinese merchants and less Indians. He bought a Chinese gown. Don Pedro and his son stayed at Singapore. He advised Rizal to stay behind too and take advantage of the protection of the British law. But Rizal pursued to Spain. The steamer left Singapore on September 8.
On September 25, he saw the steamer Isla de Luzon, leaving the Suez Canal; it was full of Spanish troops. On September 28, a day after the steamer Isla de Panay left Port Said, a passenger told Rizal that he would be arrested by order of Governor General Blanco and would be sent to prison in Cueta. Shocked by the news, Rizal realized that he was being duped.
Nothing was official yet about his impending arrest. But on September 30, he was officially notified by Captain Alemany that he should stay in his cabin until further orders from Manila. He obeyed orders.
At the same day, the steamer anchored at Malta but he was not able to land. He saw through a small window.
October 3, the Isla de Panay arrived in Barcelona, with Rizal as prisoner on board. Rizal was kept under heavy guard in his cabin for 3 days. On October 4, Rizal noticed the city’s celebration of the feast day of St. Francis of Assisi. At 3:00 a.m. of October 6, Rizal was escorted to the prison-fortress named Monjuich. After his stay at Monjuich, he was transferred to a ship named Colon. Rizal was aboard the Colon which was full of soldiers and officers. On October 6, 8:00 p.m., the ship left Barcelona.
Last Homecoming
On November 3, the Colon reached Manila, where it was greeted by the Spaniards and the friars because it bought more soldiers and supplies. Rizal then was transferred from the ship to Fort Santiago. On November 20, the preliminary investigation began. He was presented with 15 documentary evidences. On November 26, Colonel Olive transmitted the records to institute the corresponding action against Rizal. Rizal was given only the right to choose his defense counsel. He was given a list of lieutenants in the Spanish Army and one name struck his fancy. It was Don Luis Taviel de Andrade, which was the brother of Lt. Jose Taviel de Andrade who became Rizal’s bodyguard in Calamba. December 13, General Camilo G. de Polavieja became the Governor General of the Philippines.
On December 15, Rizal wrote a manifesto to his people too stop the bloodshed and to achieve their liberties by means of education and industry.
On December 25, 1896, was Christmas. Rizal was alone and depressed in his prison cell.
Trial and Death
December 26, was the day of trial of Rizal. His trial is a proof of Spanish injustice and misrule. His case was prejudged, he was considered guilty before the actual trial. The court did not give him justice, but accused and condemn him. It accepted all charges and testimonies against him and ignored all arguments and proofs in his favor.
After a short deliberation, the military court unanimously voted for the sentence of death. Immediately, Polavieja sought the opinion of the Judge Advocate. He latter affirmed the death verdict.
On December 28, Polavieja approved the decision of the court-martial and ordered Rizal to be shot at 7:00 o’clock in the morning of December 30 at Bagumbayan Field.
December 29, 1896, Rizal was visited by some family members including his beloved Josephine, some Jesuit priests, a Spanish newspaper correspondent, and some of his friends. He also finished his last poem and hid it in an alcohol cooking stove. At the same time he wrote his farewell letter to his best friend.
The following day, he heard the mass and confessed his sins. Rizal bade goodbye to Josephine and gave her a last gift which was a religious book entitled Imitation of Christ in which he autographed.
6:30 A.M., a trumpet sounded at Fort Santiago. The soldiers aligned formations and moved to their designated place for the execution. Rizal was dressed in black suit, a black derby hat, black shoes, white shirt and a black tie.
One of the priests blessed him and offered him a crucifix to kiss. Rizal reverently bowed his head and kissed it. Then he requested the firing squad commander that he’d be shot facing the firing squad but his request was denied. Unwillingly, Rizal turned his back to the firing squad and faced the sea. Rizal was not afraid to die.
The death ruffles of the drum filled the air. Above the drum-beats, the sharp command “Fire” was heard, and the guns of the firing squad shoot Rizal. It was exactly 7:03 in the morning. Rizal fell on the ground and dead with his face upward facing the morning sun.
Ending Remarks
After reading the life of Rizal, I am deeply inspired by his genius and his love for country. Although my article is quite difficult to make and patch-up, everything is worth it. I am no longer feeling awkward being a Filipino not knowing about the life of Rizal.
I personally like studying history. During my high school, I was greatly interested when my teacher started talking about the life back then. We learned about the history of the Chinese, the Greeks, or particularly the history of the World and all the people involved in it. I was impressed by their culture and their works. Not to know, we also have someone who is very interesting, very intelligent, nationalistic, and most of all he was a Filipino. Rizal is someone whom I can be proud of as a Filipino.
During the process of this article, I was amazed, inspired, sad and happy. Reading the life of Rizal is truly something. I learned about the different places and the culture of the countries he visited during that time. Even though this is just for a requirement (and might get a low rating for it), I am still satisfied and happy because I was able to read through the life of Rizal and his travels.
Rizal as a traveler was not merely a spectator he was very observant of the lifestyle of the people. This was evident through his diary entries wherein he wrote his observations of culture and other things. Rizal knew how to live in a country away from his. He was able to economize and budget his fees, he also works through his free time to earn money. During the travel of Rizal, he met a lot of people and not just mere people but professionals including professors and doctors. He was also a smart traveler because he learns the language of the country he stays. This made him communicate effectively.
During our hero’s time, traveling is very limited to the lay Filipino, since it was expensive. And also during that time, there were no airships that would hastily bring people to a certain place as we have today. The major transportation means were streamers, horse-power, trains, and foot. Rizal was not merely a sightseer but a traveler who studies the culture of the places he visits. He is also traveling to acquire more knowledge, most of which are sciences and literature.
This article will talk about the different travels of Rizal, the values and knowledge he acquired, friends he met during his travels, the places he visits and what happened there, and the special friends of Rizal. This will also deal with the fascination of Rizal and the rather bad opinions in the places he visits. Lastly, it will attempt to talk about the growth of our hero’s knowledge and acquiring skills that would later spell downfall to the 333 years of Spanish reign.
Childhood Travels
During Rizal’s birth her mother nearly died in delivery because of his big head. He promised to the virgin of Antipolo that if she would help her take Rizal to the sanctuary.
Our hero’s starting point, just like on any ventures there has to be a place to start, in his travel is his hometown Calamba, a town our hero loved so much. At Calamba, taking walks in the night when there was a moon takes Rizal in great pleasure.
The pilgrimage of Rizal in Antipolo was on June 6, 1868. With his father, he left Calamba to fulfill the vow of her mother to the virgin of the province when Jose was born. Doña Teodora couldn’t accompany them because she had given birth to Trinidad.
It was the first trip of our hero traversing Laguna de Bay and his pilgrimage to Antipolo. They rode then a casco (a barge), which was also his first time. He did not sleep the whole night because he was amazed by the watery expanse and the silence of the night.
After their trip at the Virgin of Antipolo, Rizal and Don Francisco pursued to Manila to visit Saturnina, who was then a boarding student at La Concordia College in Santa Ana. They went back to Calamba eventually.
Time to time, he would take short walks to Laguna de Bay, accompanied by his pet dog, and meditate at the shore.
The early travels of Rizal (although not far) develop his traveling side which would be evident as he grows and eventually would venture in greater horizons.
Schooling in Biñan
It was a Sunday afternoon in June, 1869, after a tearful parting from his family, he left Calamba for Biñan. He was accompanied by his brother Paciano. They rode in a carromata, a light, two-wheeled, boxlike vehicle usually drawn by a single native pony. After a one-half hours’ drive, they proceeded to their aunt’s house, where Jose was to lodge. It was almost night time when they arrived. At the same night, his cousin named Leandro went sightseeing in the town.
His life in Biñan is simple and methodical. There he experienced his first school brawl, painting lessons, and being the best student in his school.
Then the time came when he had to leave Biñan since his schooling has ended. He received a letter from his sister Saturnine telling him of the arrival of the steamer Talim that would take him from Biñan to Calamba. Upon reading the letter, he went to the town church and prayed, he even collected pebbles in the river for souvenirs and bade farewell to his teachers and classmates.
He left Biñan on a Saturday afternoon, December 17, 1870, a year and a half of schooling in that town. During his trip in the steamer Talim, which he was very excited about, he met a Frenchman which was a friend of his father who took care of him.
Schooling at Ateneo de Manila
After the martyrdom of Gom-Bur-Za, Jose went to Manila to study. He studied at Ateneo Municipal. During his first year in Ateneo, his first day started with a Holy Mass at the college chapel. He was at bottom of class when he started but became the ‘emperor’ at the end of the month.
At the end of the school year in March of 1873, Rizal returned to Calamba for it was summer vacation. He then visited his mother who was in prison during that time and was gladly embraced by his mother.
When the vacation ended, Rizal returned to Manila for his second year term in Ateneo. During his second year, Rizal had a prophecy that his mother will be freed, and in which it came true. Later, Rizal read Travels in the Philippines by Dr. Feodor Jagor, a German scientist-traveler who visited the Philippines. Rizal was impressed by the observations of Jagor like the defects of the Spanish colonization and someday Spain would lose the Philippines.
During his third year in Ateneo, he received the news that his mother was released from prison. And during his fourth year, he became an interno in Ateneo. One of his professors, Fr. Francisco de Paula Sanchez inspired Rizal to study harder and to write poetry. His schooling ended at 1877 wherein he graduated with highest honors in all his subjects.
Medical Studies at University of Santo Tomas
After finishing the first year of a course in Philosophy and Letters, he transferred to the medical course. During his stay at Santo Tomas, he won more literary laurels and other romances with pretty girls. At University of Santo Tomas, he pursued higher education, although her mother opposes his decision, his father and brother Paciano insists so.
Through his stay in UST, he was experienced the brutality of a Spanish officer, fell in love with Miss L, and wrote ‘To the Filipino Youth’.
In the summer month of May 1881, Rizal went on a pilgrimage to the town of Pakil, famous shrine of the Birhen Maria de los Dolores. He was accompanied by his sisters and their female friends. They took a Casco from Calamba to Pakil, Laguna. Rizal and his companions were fascinated by the famous turumba, the people dancing in the streets during the procession in honor of the miraculous Birhen Maria de los Dolores.
Course to Spain
His studies continued in UST until he was unhappy at the Dominican institution. After finishing the 4th year of his medical course in UST, Rizal, being disgusted with the method of instruction in the Dominican-owned University and the racial prejudice of Dominican professors against Filipino student, decided to study abroad. He predicted that his decision of studying abroad would not be favored by his parents; he did not asked their blessing.
And aside from studying in Spain he was on a secret mission. This mission was to observe keenly the life and culture, languages and customs, industries and commerce, and government and laws of the European nations in order to prepare himself in the great task of liberating his oppressed people from the Spanish tyranny.
The course to Spain is the start of Rizal’s travels.
Departure for Spain
Rizal’s departure for Spain was kept secret to avoid detection by the Spanish authorities and the friars. Even his own parents did not know because his mother would not allow him to do so. Only his older brother, his uncle, his sisters Neneng and Lucia, the Valenzuela family, Pedro Paterno, Mateo Evangelista, the Ateneo Jesuit fathers, and some intimate friends. The Jesuit priests gave him letters of recommendation to the members of their Society in Barcelona. He used the name Jose Mercado.
Before his departure he wrote a farewell letters for his beloved parents and another for his sweetheart Leonor Rivera.
On May 3, 1882, Rizal departed on board the Spanish steamer Salvadora bound for Singapore. With tears in his eyes and gloom in his head, he gazed the receding skyline of Manila. He then took his pencil and paper and sketched it as it vanished in view.
Singapore
(May 3, 1882) During the voyage he carefully observed the people and things on board the steamer. There were sixteen passengers. He was the only Filipino and the rest were Spaniards, British, and Indian Negroes. The captain of the ship, Donato Lecha befriended Rizal. To kill boredom of the voyage, Rizal played chess with his fellow passengers. He then defeated them many times, for he was a good chess player.
On May 9, the Salvadora docked at Singapore. He then stayed at Hotel de la Paz and spent two days on a sightseeing soiree of the city. He saw the famous Botanical Garden, the beautiful Buddhist templates, the busy shopping district, and the statue of Sir Thomas Stanford Raffles, who was the founder of Singapore.
To Colombo
After days of staying in Singapore, Rizal boarded the ship Djemnah, which was a French steamer and left Singapore for Europe on May 11. It was a larger and cleaner vessel which carried more passengers. French was spoken on board and Rizal attempted to converse with his fellow passengers in French, but he found out that his book French could not be understood, so he spoke a mixed Spanish-Latin and with the help sketching on paper. By conversing daily with the French passengers, he then was able to improve his knowledge of the French language.
On May 17, the Djemnah reached Point Galle, a seacoast town in southern Ceylon. Rizal was unimpressed by this town. The following day the voyage resumed towards Colombo, the capital of Ceylon. After a few hours of sailing, Rizal reached the city. Rizal was amazed by Colombo because of this scenic beauty and elegant building.
Through Suez Canal
From Colombo, the Djemnah continued the voyage crossing the Indian Ocean to the Cape coast of Africa. Rizal sighted the barren coast of Africa, for the first time, which he called an ‘inhospitable land but famous’.
The next stopover was in Aden. He found the city, hotter than Manila and was amused to see the camels for it was also his first time seeing them.
From Aden the ship proceeded to the city of Suez, the Red Sea terminal of Suez Canal. Upon arrival, Rizal disembarked and went sightseeing. What impressed him most was the beautiful moonlight which reminded him of Calamba and his family.
The Djemnah took five days to traverse the Suez Canal. Rizal was thrilled because it was his first trip through this canal which was build by Ferdinand de Lasseps. At Port Said, Rizal landed in order to see the interesting sights. He was fascinated to hear multi-racial inhabitants speaking a wide variety of language.
Naples and Marseilles
From Port Said, the ship proceeded on its way to Europe. On June 11, Rizal reached Naples. This city pleased Rizal because of its business activity, its lively people and its scenic beauty. He was fascinated by the Mouth Vesuvius, the Castle of ST. Telmo and other historic sights of the city.
The night of June 12, the steamer docked at the French harbor of Marseilles. Rizal bid farewell to his fellow passengers. He visited the famous Chateau d’lf where Dantes, was imprisoned. He stayed two and a half days in Marseilles.
Barcelona
On the afternoon of May 15, Rizal left Marseilles to proceed to Spain via train. He crossed the Pyrenees and stopped for a day at the frontier town of Port Bou.
After the passport inspection at Port Bou, Rizal continued his trip by rail, finally reaching Barcelona on June 16, 1882. His first impression of Barcelona was unfavorable. He thought of it as an ugly, dirty and its residents are inhospitable. Later, he changed his impression and liked the city. He found it as a great city, with an atmosphere of freedom and liberalism. He also found its people were open-hearted, hospitable, and courageous. He enjoyed promenading along Las Ramblas which was the famous street in Barcelona.
Filipinos in Barcelona were some of his classmates in Ateneo, welcomed him. They gave him a party at café Plaza de Cataluña. After toasts, Rizal in turn gave them the latest news and gossips in the Philippines.
In Barcelona, Rizal wrote a nationalistic essay entitled “Amor Patrio” which was his first written article on Spain’s soil. He then sent his article to Basilio Teodoro Moran, publisher of Diariong Tagalog. Basilio was deeply impressed by the article congratulated Rizal and asked Rizal to publish more articles.
While living in Barcelona, Rizal received bad news about the cholera outbreak ravaging Manila and the provinces. Many people died and more were dying daily. Sad news was that his beloved Leonor Rivera was getting thinner because of the absence of her loved one. Also, Paciano advised Rizal to continue his medical course in Madrid. Heeding his advice, Rizal left Barcelona in the fall of 1882 and proceeded to Madrid.
Madrid
On November 3, 1882, Rizal enrolled in the Universidad Central de Madrid. He took up took courses—Medicine and Philosophy and Letters. Aside from the two major courses, he also studied painting and sculpture in the Academy of Fine Arts of San Fernando; he took lessons in French, German, and English under private instructors; and assiduously practiced fencing and shooting in the Hall of Arms of Sanz y Carbonell.
Rizal lived a simple life in Madrid and knew that he came to Spain to study and prepare himself for the service of his fatherland. He budgets his money and time and never wasted a peseta for gambling, wine and women. On Saturday evening, he visits the home of Don Pablo Ortiga y Rey who lived with his son and daughter. Don Pablo has been city mayor of Manila.
Rizal then had a love affair with Consuelo Ortiga y Perez, the daughter of Don Pablo. Rizal, being a lonely man in a foreign country and far from his natal land, was attracted by Consuelo’s beauty and vivacity. Their love did not flourish because he was still engaged to Leonor Rivera and a friend of Rizal is also in-love with Consuelo.
First Visit to Paris
On June 1883, Rizal left Madrid to visit Paris. He stayed at the Hotel de Paris but then moved to a cheaper hotel. Like all tourists, Rizal was charmingly titillated by the attractive scenery of Paris such as the beautiful boulevards, the Opera House, the Place de la Concorde, the Arch of Triumph, the Bois de Boulogne, the Madelaine Church, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, the Column of Vendome, the Invalides, and the Versailes. Rizal closely observed the French way of life and spending many hours at the museums.
In Spain, he became close with prominent Spanish liberal and republican Spaniards, who were mostly Masons. Rizal was impressed by the way the Spanish Masons openly and freely criticized the government policies and lambasted the friars. In March 1883, he joined the Masonic lodge called Acacia in Madrid. His reason for joining was to secure Freemasonry’s aid in his fight against the friars in the Philippines. Later he was transferred to Lodge Solidaridad where he became a Master Mason on November 15, 1890. Still later, he was awarded the diploma as Master Mason by Le Grand Orient de France in Paris.
After departure for Spain, things turned from bad to worse in Calamba. Harvests failed on account of drought and locusts. Also the Dominican-owned hacienda increased the rentals of the lands cultivated by the Rizal family. Due to these crises, allowances of Rizal were many times late or sometimes never arrived, causing too much suffering to him.
And on November 20, 21 and 22, 1884, Rizal was involved in student demonstrations. They were fighting for Dr. Miguel Morayta who proclaimed that “the freedom of science and the teacher”. Such liberal view was condemned by the Catholic bishops of Spain.
On June 21, 1884 Rizal completed his medical course in Spain. He was conferred the degree of Licentiate in Medicine by the Universidad Central de Madrid. In the next academic year, he studied and passed al subjects leading to the degree of Doctor of Medicine. Rizal also finished his studies in Philosophy and Letters with excellent ratings.
Paris to Berlin
After completing his studies in Spain, Rizal went to Paris and Germany for his specialization in ophthalmology. He chose this course of medicine because he wanted to cure his mother’s growing eye ailment. He still hasn’t forgotten his ‘secret mission’—to observe the customs and lifestyle of the Europeans so that someday he will render service to his fatherland.
In 1885, after completing his studies at Central University of Madrid, he went to Paris in order to acquire more knowledge in ophthalmology. He was 24 then. He stopped over at Barcelona, on his way to Paris, to visit his friend Maximo Viola who is also a medical student and a member of a rich family in Bulacan. And on the November of that year, Rizal was living in Paris where he sojourned for about four months. He worked as an apprentice of Dr. Louis de Weckert, who is a then, a leading French ophthalmologist. And with his master, his knowledge in ophthalmology improved.
While not working at Dr. Weckert’s clinic, Rizal visited his friends, such as the family of Pardo de Taveras, Juan Luna and Felix Resurreccion, Hidalgo.
Rizal spent many happy hours in the studio of Luna. Luna discussed with Rizal various problems on art and improved his own painting technique. Rizal posed to some painting of Luna. He was one of the Egyptian priests in Luna’s painting “The Death of Cleopatra”.
At Heidelberg
Rizal left Paris on February 1, 1886, after acquiring enough experience in the clinic of Dr. Weckert. He was set to go to Germany. He visited Strasbourg and other German towns.
On February 3, 1886, he arrived in Heidelberg, a historic city in Germany famous for its old university and romantic surroundings. He lived in a boarding house with some German law students. The German students found out that Rizal was a good chess player and made him a member of the Chess Player’s Club. After a few days, he was transferred to a boarding house which was near University of Heidelberg. He worked at the University Eye Hospital under the direction of Dr. Otto Becker and attended the lectures of Doctor Becker and Prof. Wilhelm Kuehne at the university.
At weekends he visited the scenic spots around Heidelberg which includes the Heidelberg Castle, the romantic Neckar Rivera, the theater, and the old churches. Rizal noticed that the German Catholics and the Protestants practiced ecumenism wherein they live together in harmony and cordiality.
On April 22, 1886, spring on Heidelberg, he wrote a poem to the beautiful blooming flowers at the Neckar River. Among those was his favorite flower—the forget-me-not.
Rizal then spent three-month summer vacation at Wilhelmsfeld, a mountainous village close to Heidelberg. He stayed at the vicarage of a kind Protestant pastor, Dr. Karl Ullmer. He was very delighted in his stay at the Ullmers.
On July 31, 1886, Rizal wrote his first letter in German to Professor Ferdinand Blumentritt. Rizal heard that Blumentritt was interested in the Philippine languages. Along with the letter was a book entitled Aritmetica. Delighted with Rizal, Blumentritt send gift books to Rizal. This marked the beginning of their long and frequent correspondence.
Rizal was fortunate to be sojourning in Heidelberg when the famous University of Heidelberg held its fifth centenary celebration on August 6 of 1886. It was three days before his departure and he was sad because he had come to love the land and the beautiful city.
Leipzig and Dresden
On August 9, 1886, three days after the fifth centenary of the University of the Heidelberg, Rizal left the city. He boarded a train and visited various cities of Germany until arriving in Leipzig on August 14, 1886. He attended some lectures in the University of Leipzig and befriended Professor Friedrich Ratzel, a famous German historian, and Dr. Hans Meyer, German anthropologist.
Rizal translated William Tell from German to Filipino so that Filipinos might know the story of that champion of Swiss independence. He also translated into Filipino Hans Christian Andersen’s Fairy Tales.
Cost of living in Leipzig is the cheapest in Europe so he stayed there for two months and a half. During his stay, he corrected some chapters in his second novel and also had time for exercise. He also worked as a proof-reader in a publishing firm and earning some money.
DresdenRizal left Leipzig to set course on Dresden on October 29, 1886. At Dresden, Rizal met Dr. Adolph Meyer, the director of the Anthropological and Ethnological Museum. He stayed only two days in the city. He heard the Holy Mass in a Catholic church which greatly impressed him, for he wrote “Truly I have never in my life heard a Mass whose music had greater sublimity and intonation”.
Morning of November 1, Rizal left Dresden by train reaching Berlin in the evening.
Berlin
Rizal liked Berlin because of its atmosphere which was very scientific and the absence of race prejudice. Also, here he met Dr. Feodor Jagor author of Travels in the Philippines, a book that Rizal admired because of its keen observances in the Philippine setting. Dr. Jagor in turn, introduced Rizal to Dr. Rudolf Virchow, a famous anthropologist and to his son, Dr. Hans Virchow, professor of Descriptive Anatomy. Rizal worked in the clinic of Dr. Karl Ernest Schweigger, a famous German ophthalmologist.
Rizal was the first Asian to be accorded with honors for being a member of the Anthropological Society, the Ethnological Society, and the Geographical Society of Berlin. Dr. Virchow recognized Rizal’s genius, invited him to give a lecture before the Ethnographic Society of Berlin. Rizal wrote a scholarly paper entitled Taglische Verkunst (Tagalog Metrical Art) which elicited favorable comments from all scientific quarters.
Rizal led a methodological life in Berlin. He worked as an assistant by day, and attended lectures at night. He kept himself physically fit by daily exercises and speaking German, French and Italian. Rizal took private lessons in the French language under Madame Lucie Cerdole in order to master the French language.
He spends his leisure moments touring the country sides of Berlin and observing the culture and life of the people. He also made sketches of the things he saw. About observing culture, Rizal greatly admired the German Yuletide custom, wherein Germans would take bushes from a pine tree and dress it up with lanterns, papers and candies. Another interesting custom in Germany is that, when a man has nobody to introduce him to the other guests, he bows his head to the guests and introduces himself to the other guests and shakes hands of everyone in the room.
Not all the experiences of Rizal in Germany were good, there is this one winter time wherein he lived in poverty because no money arrived from Calamba and he was flat broke. During that time, he only eats one meal a day and had to wash his clothes himself because he could not afford to pay the laundry. On Calamba, Paciano tried to raise money but crops have failed due to locusts and the sugar market collapsed.
Noli Me Tangere published in Berlin
Noli Me Tangere during Rizal’s stay in Berlin was unable to be published. But with the help of Maximo Viola, who gave him the necessary funds to publish the novel, Noli Me Tangere was published. Viola loaned Rizal money for publishing and for Rizal’s living expenses. With that, Rizal and Viola happily celebrated the Christmas of 1886 in Berlin.
During the printing of the Noli, the chief of police Berlin paid a sudden visit to Rizal’s boarding house. The chief asked for Rizal’s passport, but Rizal couldn’t show any. The chief told him to secure a passport within four days, otherwise he would be deported.
Rizal failed in obtaining his passport and presented himself at the German police office, politely apologizing for his failure. The police then told him that Rizal was suspected as a French spy because he came fro Paris and knew the language of the French people so well. Rizal explained in German to the police that he was not a French spy, but a Filipino physician and scientist. With that, he was allowed to stay freely in Germany.
On March 21, 1887, the Noli Me Tangere came off the printing press. Rizal immediately sent copies to his intimate friends, including Blumentritt, Dr. Antonio Jaena, Mariano Ponce, and Felix R. Hidalgo. As a token of his appreciation and gratitude, Rizal gave Viola the galley proofs of Noli carefully rolled around the pen that he used in writing. It also has a dedication “To my dear friend, Maximo Viola, the first to read and appreciate my work—Jose Rizal.”
Noli Me Tangere was solely dedicated to the Philippines. He described the Philippines as a patient with cancer that even with the most careful touch; it awakens in it the sharpest pains.
The friends of Rizal hailed the novel, appreciated its content and deeply touched and awakened by its fine truth. Of all the congratulatory letters received by Rizal about Noli, that from Blumentritt was significant. “First of all” wrote Blumentritt, “accept my cordial congratulations for your beautiful novel about customs which interests me extraordinarily. Your work, as we Germans say, has been written with the blood of the heart, and so the heart also speaks. I continue reading it with much interest…”
Grand Tour of Europe
After the publication of Noli, Rizal planned to visit the important places in Europe. Rizal received his money from Paciano worth 1,000 pesos. He immediately paid viola the sum of 300 pesos from his kind loan.
At dawn of May 11, 1887, Rizal and Viola left Berlin by train. Spring was in the air and Europe is blooming with flowers. Their destination was Dresden, “One of the best cities in Germany”.
Dresden
Rizal and Viola spent some time in Dresden. Their visit coincided with the regional floral exposition. Rizal studied different plants because he was interested in botany. They visited Dr. Adolph B. Meyer, who was overjoyed to see them. They also visited the Museum of Art and Rizal was deeply impressed by the painting of “Prometheus Bound”, a Greek mythological tragedy.
While strolling at the scene of the Floral Exposition, they met Dr. Jagor. Dr. Jagor advised them to wire Blumentritt of their coming because the old professor was of a nervous disposition and he might suffer a shock at their sudden visit.
Their next stopover was Teschen. Rizal and Viola sent a wire to Blumentritt, as suggested by Dr. Jagor.
Blumentritt and Leitmeritz
At 1:30 p.m. of May 13, 1887, the train with Rizal and Viola on board arrived at the railroad station of Leitmeritz, Bohemia. Professor Blumentritt waited for them in the station after he received the wire. He was carrying a pencil sketch of Rizal which the letter had previously sent him, so that he could identify his Filipino friend. He warmly welcomed Rizal and Viola.
For the first time, Rizal and Blumentritt met each other. They greeted each other in fluent German. Upon seeing the talented Rizal, the old professor immediately took him into heart, loving him as a son.
Rizal had beautiful memories of his visit to Leitmeritz. He enjoyed the warm hospitality and enjoyed the cooking of the professor’s wife Rosa. Blumentritt’s children were Dolores, Conrad, and Fritz. Blumentritt showed the scenic sights and historical spots of Leitmeritz.
One afternoon he invited them to a beer garden where the best beer of Bohemia was served. At the beer garden, they met the burgomaster or the town mayor. Blumentritt introduced the two to the burgomaster. Rizal talked in fluent German, for which the burgomaster and his friends were amazed.
On another afternoon, Rizal and Viola were invited to a meeting o the Tourists’ Club of Leitmeritz, of Blumentritt was secretary. The members of the society were amazed by the fluency of Rizal in German.
Rizal painted a portrait of the kind professor and gave it to him as a commemoration of his happy hours at the professor’s home.
Rizal also met another renowned scientist of Europe namely, Dr. Carlos Czepelak. Rizal had a nice conversation with the Polish scholar. Blumentritt also introduced Rizal to Professor Robert Klutschak, an eminent naturalist.
On their last night in Leitmeritz, Rizal and Viola, reciprocated Blumentritt’s hospitality with a banquet. On May 16, at 9:45 A.M., Rizal and Viola left Leitmeritz by train. Blumentritt and his family were at the railroad station to see them off, and they all shed tears in parting as the train departed. Rizal carried with him all the beautiful memories of his visit to Leitmeritz.
History City of Prague
After their stay at Leitmeritz, Rizal together with Viola visited the city of Prague. They carried recommendation letters from Blumentritt to Dr. Willkomm, a professor of natural history in the University of Prague. The kind-hearted professor together with his wife and daughters welcomed them and showed them the city’s historic spots.
Rizal and Viola visited the tomb of Copernicus, the museum of natural history, the bacteriological laboratories, the famous cave where San Juan Nepomuceno was imprisoned, and the bridge from which the saint was hurled into the river.
After their stay at the home of the Willkomms, Rizal and Viola left Prague and went to Brunn.
Queen of the Danube
On May 20, Rizal and Viola arrived in the beautiful Vienna. Famous in songs and story, this city very much fascinated Rizal because of its beautiful buildings, religions images and charm. Rizal and Viola presented a letter of recommendation, from Blumentritt, to Norfenfals, one of the greatest novelists in Europe during that time. The great novelist was impressed by Rizal’s genius. Later he spoke highly of Rizal.
Also in Vienna, Rizal received his lost diamond stickpin. It was found by a main in Hotel Krebs and was given to Blumentritt who, in turn, forwarded it to Rizal.
The two stayed at Hotel Metropole. They visited the city’s interesting places, such as churches, museums, art galleries, theaters and parks.
Lintz
On May 24, Rizal and Viola left Vienna on a river boat to see the beautiful sights of the Danube Rivera. As they both travel with boat, Rizal observed the different sights like the barges loaded with products, the flowers and plants growing along the river banks, the boats with families living on them, and the quaint villages on the riversides. They also noticed that the passengers were using paper napkins during meals.
To Rheinfall, To Salzburg, To Munich & Nuremberg
The river voyage ended in Lintz. They traveled overland to Salzburg and from there to Munich where they sojourned for a short time to savor the famous Munich beer, reputed to be the best in Germany.
From Munich they went to Nuremberg, an old city of Germany. Among the sights were the horrible torture machines used by the Inquisition, in which Rizal examined carefully. Viola and Rizal were greatly impressed by the manufacture of dolls in Nuremberg.
After Munich, they visited Ulm. The cathedral of this city was the largest and the tallest in all Germany. Viola related that he and Rizal climbed its many hundred steps. Viola getting dizzy, but Rizal was not.
From Ulm, they went to Stuttgart, Baden and then Rheinfall. At Rheinfall, they saw the waterfall which was the most beautiful waterfall of Europe.
Switzerland
From Rheinfall, they crossed the frontier to Schaffhausen, Switzerland. They stayed in this city from June 2 to 3, 1887. They then continued their tour to Basel, Bern, and Lausanne.
After sightseeing in Lausanne, Rizal and Viola left on a little boat, crossing the foggy Leman Lake to Geneva.
GenevaRizal and Viola visited Geneva. This Swiss city is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe which was visited by world tourist every year. The people of Geneva were linguists, speaking French, German, and Italian. Rizal conversed with them in these three languages.
Rizal and Viola also went boating on the lake. Rizal showed his rowing prowess which he acquired during his boyhood days in Calamba.
On June 19, 1887, it was Rizal’s 26th birthday and treated Viola to a blow-out. Rizal and Viola spent fifteen days in Geneva. On June 23, they parted ways. Viola decided to return to Barcelona while Rizal continued his tour to Italy.
Madrid Exposition
During his tour in Europe, Rizal received sad news from his friends in Madrid of the deplorable conditions of primitive Igorots who were exhibited in this expositions, some of whom died and whose clothing are inappropriate for the climate of Madrid, and crude weapons were objects of mockery and laughter by the Spanish people and press. Rizal being a champion of human dignity was outrageous.
Italy
Rizal went to Italy. He visited Turin, Milan, Venice and Florence. On June 27, 1887, he reached Rome. He was thrilled by the sights and memories of the Eternal City—Rome.
On June 29th, Rizal visited for the first time the Vatican, the “City of the Popes” and the capital Christendom. He was impressed by the magnificent edifices, particularly of St. Peter’s Church which was also his feast day during that time.
Every night, after sightseeing the whole day, Rizal returned to his hotel, very tired. “I am tired as a dog,” he wrote to Blumentritt, “but I will sleep as a god”.
After a week of staying in Rome, he prepared to return to the Philippines. He had already written to his father that he was coming home.
First Homecoming
From 1882 to 1887, Rizal was in Europe studying. There he was allured, fascinated and have all the beautiful memories throughout his sojourn. But this will not make Rizal forget his fatherland and his nationality. After 5 years of memorable adventure in Europe, he returned to the Philippines in August 1887 and practiced medicine in Calamba.
Although his life is threatened because his Noli Me Tangere caused uproar especially among the friars, he insists on returning home. He has his reasons of coming home, one is that he wants to operate his mother’s eyes; another is that he wants to know how his novel affected the life of the Filipino.
Rizal left Rome by train for Marseilles and on July 3, 1887 he boarded the steamer Djemnah which was the same steamer he boarded five years ago. The steamer was enroute to the Orient via the Suez Canal. Rizal saw this canal for the second time.
On July 30, he transferred to another steamer in Saigon to steamer Haiphong which was bound to Manila. On August 2, the steamer left Saigon for Manila.
Arrival at Manila
On August 5, the Haiphong arrived in Manila and he went ashore with a happy heart for he was once again in Filipino soil. He stayed in the city for a short time to visit some friends and observed that Manila was the same five years ago.
Home in Calamba
On August 8, he returned to Calamba. His family welcomed him affectionately. The rejoicing returns over when his family became worried of his safety. Paciano did not leave him during the first days because he wants to protect him from any enemy assault. Even his own father would not let him go out alone.
In Calamba he established a medical clinic and his first patient was his mother, who was that time almost blind. The news of a great doctor from Germany spread far and wide. Patients from Manila and the provinces flocked to Calamba to have a consultation to Rizal. His fees were reasonable, within a month he was able to earn about 900 pesos.
He also opened a gymnasium for young folks where he introduced European sports. He tried to interest his townies in gymnastics, fencing, and shooting and discourage cockfights and gambling.
Rizal failed to see Leonor Rivera, his loved one.
A few weeks after his arrival, he received a letter from Governor General Emilio Terrero requesting him to come to Malacañan Palace. Rizal went to Manila and appeared before Gov.Gen. Terrero and denied the acquisitions of the Governor General. He explained that it was merely an exposition of truth, but he did not advocate rebellious ideas. The governor was pleased by his explanation and asked for a copy of Noli so that he could read it. Rizal had no copy that time but promised it to the governor general once he secured a copy of it.
Rizal found a copy in the hands of a friend. He was able to give it to governor general Terrero. The governor general knew that Rizal’s life was in jeopardy because the friars were powerful. He then assigned a young Spanish lieutenant as a bodyguard of Rizal.
Farewell Again
Rizal’s novel caused uproar among the friars. Anonymous threats against Rizal’s life were received by his parents. Feeling uneasy with the situation, they advised him to go away for his life was in danger.
Governor General Terrero summoned Rizal and advised him to leave the Philippines for his own good. He was giving Rizal a change to escape the fury of the friar’s wrath.
Rizal really needs to go because he could not disobey the governor general’s orders. Rizal left Calamba in 1888.
Hong Kong
Haunted by enemies and threatened by friars, Rizal was forced to leave Philippines for the second time. It was February 1888 then. Rizal at 27 was an embittered victim of human iniquities, a disillusioned dreamer, and a frustrated reformer. This was the start of Rizal’s second travel.
On February 3, 1888, after six months of stay in Calamba, Rizal left Manila for Hong Kong on board the Zafiro. He was sad and sick during the crossing of the choppy China Sea. He did not get off the ship when it made a stopover at Amoy, because he was sick, it was raining and the city was dirty. He arrived in Hong Kong on February 8.
In Hong Kong, Rizal stayed at Victoria Hotel. He was welcomed by the Filipino community in Hong Kong. During this time, a Spaniard, Jose Varanda, was shadowing Rizal’s movements in Hong Kong. It is believed that he was ordered to spy on Rizal.
Macao
On February 18, Rizal accompanied by Basa, boarded the ferry steamer Kiu-Kiang for Macao. He was surprised to see a familiar figure among the passengers—Sainz de Varanda.
Rizal described Macao as a small, low and gloomy. There are many junks, sampans, but few steamers, it looks sad and is almost dead-like.
The two stayed in at the home of Don Juan Francisco Lecaros who was married to a Portuguese lady.
During his two day stay in Macao, he visited the theater, casino, cathedral and churches, pagodas and botanical gardens and the bazaars. He also saw the famous Grotto of Camoens.
In the evening of February 19, he witnessed a Catholic procession wherein the devotees were dressed in blue and purple dresses and were carrying unlighted candles.
On February 20, Rizal and Basa returned to Hong Kong on board the ferry steamer Kiu-Kiang.
Hong Kong
A Landmark in Honor of Rizal’s Visit in Hong KongRizal stayed in Hong Kong for two weeks. There he studied the Chinese way of life, language, drama and customs.
Rizal noticed some experiences and wrote them in his diary. Some of them include the noisy celebration of the Chinese New Year which lasted from February 11th to 13th. There were continuous explosion of firecrackers and he himself fired many at the window of his hotel. He also observed the boisterous Chinese theater, the marathon Lauriat party, which was the longest meal in the world; the Dominican Order was the richest religious order in Hong Kong, and the cemeteries.
On February 22, 1888, Rizal left Hong Kong on board the Oceanic, an American steamer and his destination was Japan. Rizal did not like the meals on board but liked the ship because it was clean and efficiently managed.
Japan
Among the happiest moments of Rizal in his life was his sojourn in the Land of the Cherry Blossoms. He stayed in Japan for one month and a half from February 28 to April 13, 1888. He was charmed by the natural beauty of Japan, the manners of the Japanese people and the picturesque of shrines. He also fell in love with a Japanese girl, who loveliness infused joy and romance in his sorrowing heart.
Morning of Tuesday, February 28, 1888, Rizal arrived at Yokohama and stayed in the Grand Hotel. The following day, he moved to Tokyo and took a room at the Tokyo Hotel where he stayed from March 2 to 7. He was impressed by the city of Tokyo.
After his arrival in Tokyo, Rizal was visited by Juan Perez caballero, secretary of Spanish Legation. The latter invited him to live at the Spanish Legation. Rizal knew that this was the Spanish government’s way of monitoring Rizal but he accepted anyways.
On March 7, he moved out of Tokyo Hotel and lived at the Spanish Legation. He and Perez Caballero became good friends and described him as a young, fine and an excellent writer.
During his first day in Tokyo, Rizal could talk the Japanese language. He had a hard time for shopping for he could not be understood and children laughed at him. With his situation, Rizal decided to study the Japanese language. He was able to speak within a few days.
At Japan he studied the Japanese drama, arts, music, and judo. He also visited museums, libraries, art galleries, and shrines. He visited Meguro, Nikko, Hakone, Miyanoshita, and the charming villages of Japan.
During one time, Rizal went to the park and heard the Tokyo band playing a classical work of Strauss. He was impressed by the great performances of the Western music. He thought to himself how admirable their renditions are and wondered how they have assimilated the modern European music to the extent of playing the beautiful masterpieces of the European composers so well. The band stopped playing and to his surprised they were speaking Tagalog. He approached them and conversed with them. The musicians were delighted and also surprised to meet him.
Rizal was greatly impressed by Japan. Among of which are the natural beauty of the country, the cleanliness and politeness of the people, the picturesque dress and simple charm of the Japanese women, there were few thieves in Japan, and beggars were rarely seen in the city streets. However, he disliked the rickshaws drawn by men.
Sayonara Japan and Seiko Usui
Rizal met a pretty Japanese girl. Her name was Seiko Usui. Rizal fell in love with Seiko. He affectionately called her O-Sei-San. Both found happiness in each other’s company. Affinity of interest in the arts paved the way for their romance. Rizal saw in lovely O-Sei-San the qualities of his ideal womanhood—beauty, charm, modesty, and intelligence.
O-Sei-San’s beauty and affection almost tempted Rizal to settle down in Japan. At the same time, he was offered a good job by the Spanish Legation. But then, his love for the fatherland and his mission to free his oppressed people made him think again.
Rizal’s great love for Seiko Usui and Japan will be memories that he will always cherish, but it was his time to go.
On April 13, 1888, Rizal boarded the Belgic, an English steamer, at Yokohama, bound for the United States. He left Japan with a heavy heart for he knew that he will never see this beautiful land again, so as his beloved O-Sei-San. His sojourn in Japan for 45 days was one of the happiest interludes of his life.
Across the Pacific
Despite his sorrowing heart, Rizal enjoyed the pleasant trans-Pacific voyage to the United States. One day one of the children on board the ship asked Rizal if he knew a man in Manila named “Richal”. Rizal replied that he was “Richal”. In his amazement, the boy rushed to his mother and informing her that the famous man is their fellow passenger, the mother felt proud that they were travelling with a celebrity.
Another passenger Rizal befriended on board was Tetcho Suehiro, a Japanese journalist, novelist and a champion of human rights, who was forced by the Japanese government to leave the country. He was alone at the beginning of the voyage for he knew that he was only person in the ship who speaks Japanese. Rizal knew about this and befriended him and acted as his interpreter during their long trip from Yokohama to San Francisco, across the U.S. to New York until they reached London, where they parted.
Rizal told Tetcho the story of his life and his mission to emancipate his oppressed fellowmen from Spanish tyranny. Tetcho was fascinated by Rizal’s admirable character and influenced him to fortify his own crusade for human rights in his own country.
On December 1, 1888 after a last handshake of their eight months of friendship and bidding each other goodbye, Rizal and Tetcho parted ways—never to meet again.
Visit to the United States
Rizal first saw America on April 28, 1888. His arrival was marred by racial prejudice for he saw the discriminatory treatment of the Chinese and the Negroes by the white Americans.
Rizal had good and bad impressions of the United States. The good were the material progress of the country, the drive and energy of the American people, the natural beauty of the land, the high standard of living and the opportunities for better life offered to poor immigrants. On bad impression was the lack of racial equality. There existed racial prejudice which was inconsistent with the principles of democracy and freedom of which Americans talk so much but do not practice.
Rizal’s trip to America started on April 28, 1888 to May 16, 1888.
San Francisco
The steamer Belgic docked at the San Francisco on Saturday morning, April 28, 1888. All passengers were not allowed to land. The American health authorities placed the ship under quarantine on the ground it came from the Far east where a cholera epidemic was alleged to be raging. Rizal was surprised because he knew there was no Cholera epidemic at that time. He joined other passengers protesting the unjustifiable action of the health authorities. Later, the American consul in Japan had given the ship a clean bill of health.
He soon discovered that the quarantine was motivated by politics because the ship was carrying 653 Chinese coolies.
On Friday afternoon, May 4, 1888, he was permitted to go ashore and then he registered for a room at the Palace Hotel. Rizal stayed in San Francisco for two days from May 4 to 6.
On May 6, Rizal left San Francisco for Oakland, nine miles across San Francisco Bay by ferry boat. On May 7, he awoke and had a good breakfast at Reno, Nevada.
On May 8, Rizal was in the state of Utah. From Ogden, they went to Denver.
On May 9, they were passing through the mountains and rocks along the river. They woke up at Colorado, which he described as a state with a lot of trees.
On May 10, they arrived at Nebraska then to Omaha, which was a big city. They passed the Missouri River and arrived at Illinois.
On May 11, they arrived at Chicago. He observed that every store in Chicago are selling cigars and has Indian figures.
May 12 they arrived at Wagner Car which he described as beautiful and well populated. They arrived at the English territory in the afternoon, and saw the Niagara Falls. They had a stopover to see some sights and went to the side below the Niagara Falls.
On May 13, they arrived at Albany which was a big city. The Hudson River runs along and carries many boats. The sights here were beautiful although more solitary than those of Pasig.
The grand transcontinental trip ended on Sunday, May 13, at 11:00 A.M.
On Sunday morning, May 13, Rizal arrived at New York, which marks the end of his trip to America. He stayed three days in this city and visited some scenic and historic places. He was awed and inspired by the memorial of George Washington.
On May 16, 1888 he left New York for Liverpool on board the City of Rome. He was onboard in a steamer which was “the second largest ship in the world”—the Great Eastern. He saw the colossal Statue of Liberty on Bedloe Island as the ship steamed out of New York.
Once Again in London
Rizal lived in London from May, 1888 to March 1889. He chose this English city because of three reasons:
1. To improve his knowledge of the English language,
2. To Study and annotate Morga’s Sucesos de las Islas Filipinas, which he heard to be available in the British Museum and
3. London was a safe place from the attacks of Spanish tyranny.
Across the Atlantic
The trans-Atlantic voyage was a pleasant one. He won many friends of different nationalities on board the palatial City of Rome because of his ability as linguist. Rizal entertained the passengers with his marvelous skill with the yo-yo. He used it as an offensive weapon instead of a toy.
Rizal arrived at Liverpool, England on May, 1888. He stayed one day in Liverpool spending the night at Adelphi Hotel. He described it as a big and beautiful city.
Life in London
On May 25, 1888, Rizal went to London. For a short time, he stayed at the home of Dr. Antonio Ma. Regidor– a lawyer in London. By the end of May he was a boarder of the Beckett family. His home was located near public parks and within easy walking distance to the British Museum. He spent most of his time in the British Museum studying the book of Morga’s Sucesos and other rare historical books about the Philippines.
Gertrude Beckette, Rizal's Love Interulde in LondonHe spent his Sundays at the house of Dr. Rost, the librarian of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and an authority on Malayan languages and customs. Dr. Rost was greatly impressed by Rizal’s knowledge and character and gladly recommended him to the authorities of the British Museum. He called Rizal “a pearl of a man”.
For ten months, Rizal was deeply immersed in his historical studies in London. During that time, his compatriots in Spain were waging the crusade for Philippine reforms.
Visiting Paris & SpainIn September of 1888, he visited Paris for a week for him to search for more historical materials in the Bibliotheque Nationale. He was entertained by Juan Luna and his wife. After reading over the old books, he returned to London.
On December 11, 1888, he went to Spain visiting Madrid and Barcelona. He contacted his compatriots and surveyed the political situation. For the first time, he met Marcelo H. Del Pilar and Mariano Ponce, the two titans of Propaganda Movement. He exchanged ideas with these new friends and promised to cooperate in the fight for reforms.
Christmas in London
Rizal returned to London on December 24 and spent Christmas and New Year’s Day with the Becketts. Rizal liked Christmas Eves because it reminded him of many good days of his infancy and also Christ was born. Rizal received from Mrs. Beckett a book entitled The Life and Adventures of Valentine Vox, the Ventriloquist.
During his stay at London, he became the honorary president of a patriotic society cooperating for reforms called Asociacion La Dolidaridad. It was inaugurated on December 31, 1888. Rizal also wrote his first article in La Solidaridad, a patriotic newspaper founded by Graciano Lopez Jaena, entitled Los Agricultores Filipinos which was published on March 25, 1889.
Rizal wrote several works while in London. These writings includes: La Vision del Fray Rodriguez, Letter to the Young Women of Malolos, and he also contributed some articles to Dr. Rost’s journal entitled Specimens of Tagal Folklore and Two Eastern Fables. Rizal also fell in-love with one of the three Beckett sisters—Gertrude.
On March 19, 1889, Rizal bade goodbye to the Beckett family and left London for Paris. He was sad as he crossed the English Channel for he cherished many beautiful memories in London.
Universal Exposition of 1889
Rizal went to Paris on the spring of 1889. The city was full of excitement because of the Universal Exposition and it was hard to look for an inn to stay. The landlords are taking advantage of the great demand for living quarters, raised the rents of their rooms. For a short time, Rizal lived in the house of his friend, Valentin Ventura. There he also published his annotated edition of Morga’s book. He transferred from one hotel to another. Finally, he lived in a little room together with two other Filipinos—Capitan Justo Trinidad and Jose Albert.
On June 24, 1889, Juan Luna and Paz Pardo de Tavera had a baby girl. They made Rizal as her baptismal godfather and named her Maria de la Paz.
Rizal was fascinated by the Universal Exposition of Paris. It opened on May 5, 1889. The greatest attraction of the exposition was the Eiffel Tower, which was built by Alexander Eiffel. Rizal also participated in an art competition but got no prize.
During one time, Rizal together with the Kidlat Club was amazed by the proud American Indians. He told his friends “they are not ashamed of their name. Let us be like them…”
Another society founded by Rizal in Paris was the R.D.L.M. Society. The aim of the secret society is the propagation of all useful knowledge in the Philippines. Another aim is the redemption of the Malay race.
During his stay in Europe, he was deeply immense by his historical studies about the Philippines. Rizal wants to learn more about the history of his Fatherland.
Another work of Rizal was The Indolence of the Filipinos. He also became a member of “International Association of Filipinologists” with Dr. Ferdinand Blumentritt as the President. In the fall of 1889, he wrote another satirical work entitled Por Telefono; it is a reply to Fr. Salvador Font, who masterminded the banning of his Noli.
December 25, 1889, Rizal celebrated his Christmas in Paris. Rizal and Jose Albert planned to have a sumptuous Christmas dinner. They scraped enough money to celebrate Yuletide. They prepared a Christmas dinner with friend chicken, rice and vegetables.
Shortly after the New Year, Rizal made a short visit to London. His purpose may be because he wants to see Gertrude Beckette for the last time, and check up his annotated edition of Morga’s Sucesos.
By the mid of January 1890, he was back in Paris, during that time influenza was epidemic throughout Paris. He complained of a terrible headache but he was not stricken with flu.
Belgian Brussels
On January 28, 1890, Rizal left Paris for Brussels, the capital of Belgium. Rizal was accompanied by Jose Albert when he moved to Brussels. They lived in a boarding house on 38 Rue Philippe Champagne which was run by two Jaceby sisters.
In Brussels Rizal was busy writing his second novel “El Filibusterismo”. Aside from writing its chapters, he wrote articles for La Solidaridad. He also spent some of his time in a medical clinic, and had gymnastics at the gymnasium. Rizal stayed with Jose Alejandro at the boarding house when Jose Albert left the city.
Rizal loved his own native language. He was the first to advocate the Filipinization of its orthography. As an example the Tagalog letters k and w should be used instead of the Spanish c and o.
Rizal received news that the Filipinos in Spain were destroying the good image of their nation y gambling too much. He wrote a letter to the Filipinos in Spain and the gambling Filipino and the gambling Filipinos in Madrid were angry when they learned of Rizal’s moralizing.
Rizal also received letters from home that worries him. The Calamba agrarian trouble was getting worse. The management of the Dominican hacienda continually raised the land rents.
In the face of the sufferings which afflicted his family, Rizal planned to go home. He could not stay in Brussels writing a book while his family was being persecuted.
Rizal ignored the warning of his friends and did not change his plans.
But there are some things that cheered Rizal’s life. One was the summertime festival of Belgium. Second was his romance with Petite Jacoby, the pretty niece of his landladies.
Madrid
Rizal’s life in Madrid could be described as full of misfortunes. In August 1890, Rizal arrived in Madrid. He tried all legal means to seek justice for his family and the Calamba tenants, but to no avail. Also, Leonor Rivera married a British engineer.
Rizal sought the help of the Filipino colony to protest the injustices of the Dominicans against the Calamba folks. More terrible news reached Rizal in Madrid, his brother-in-law; Silvestre received a copy of eviction order by the Dominicans. He also learned of the deportation of Paciano, Antonio, Silvestre, Teong and Dandoy to Mindoro. He further learned from Saturnina’s letter that their parents had been forcibly ejected from their home.
Adding to his misfortunes was the death of Jose Panganiban—his co-worker in the Propaganda Movement.
Rizal almost had a duel with Antonio Luna when Luna was saying unsavory remarks about Nellie. Rizal heard him and challenged him into a duel. But later on, they realized that their duel would damage their cause in Spain.
Biarritz
Rizal took a vacation in the resort city of Biarritz on the fabulous French Riviera. He was the guest of the Boustead family. It was in Biarritz where he had finished the last chapter of his second novel, El Filibusterismo.
Rizal was in-love with Nellie Boustead, a daughter of the Boustead family. With the encouragement of his close friends, Rizal courted Nelly, who in turn, reciprocated his affection. Rizal had plans of marrying Nellie, but failed. Nelly wanted Rizal to espouse Protestantism before their marriage. Rizal, being a man of firm conviction, refused. Another problem was Nelly’s mothers, who do not wish to entrust Nelly to a man who was poor in material things.
On March 30, 1891, Rizal proceeded to Paris by train. Rizal retired from the Propaganda Movement and retired also from La Solidaridad.
In Brussels Rizal worked day after day revising the finished manuscript of El Filibusterismo and readied it for printing.
Ghent
On July 5, 1891, Rizal left Brussels for Ghent a famous university city in Belgium. He stayed at Ghent because the cost of printing is cheaper. Rizal had limited funds and lived in a cheap boarding house.
After his arrival, Rizal searched for the printing shop that could give him the lowest quotation for the publication of his novel. He found out that F. Meyer-Van Loo Press was willing to print his book on installment basis. He pawned all his jewels to pay the down payment and early partial payments. He had received money from Basa and 200 pesos from Arias for the copies of Morga’s Sucesos which were sold in Manila.
Ventura learned of Rizal’s predicament and immediately sent him the necessary funds. With his financial aid, the printing of Fili was resumed. The El Filibusterismo was dedicated to the martyrdom of the Gom-Bur-Za.
Hong Kong
After the publication of El Filibusterismo, Rizal left Europe for Hong Kong. He lived there from November, 1891 to June 1892.
On October 18, 1891, Rizal boarded the steamer Melbourne in Marseilles bound for Hong Kong. During the voyage he began writing his third novel in Tagalog. Makamisa, Dapitan, and another untitled novel were some of the unfinished novels of Rizal.
Rizal described his trip as “heavenly”. In the ship were over 80 passengers—mostly Europeans, and two Spaniards who were going to Amoy. Rizal was the only Asian among them, and amazed his fellow passengers with his knowledge of many languages.
Rizal arrived in Hong Kong on November 20, 1891. He was welcomed by Jose Basa and lived at Number 5 D’ Aguilar Street where he also opened his medical clinic.
Before the Christmas of 1891, he was gladdened by the arrival of his father, brother and Silvestre Ubaldo in Hong Kong. Not long afterwards, his mother and sisters Lucia, Josefa and Trinidad also arrived. This Christmas was one of the happiest moments in Rizal’s life for he had a happy family reunion.
Rizal also practiced his ophthalmology in Hong Kong. There he became a well-known medical practitioner.
Second Homecoming
In May, 1892, Rizal made up his mind to return to Manila. He gave two letters, which were sealed and inscribed on it “to be opened after my death”, to his friend Dr. Marques for safekeeping.
At noon of June 26, 1892, Rizal and his sister Lucia arrived in Manila. He stayed in Hotel de Oriente which was facing the church of Binondo.
On June 27, Rizal boarded a train in Tutuban Station and visited his friends. And on Wednesday July 6, Rizal went to Malacañan Palace to resume his series of interviews. The governor general then presented to him some printed leaflets (Pobres Frailes) which were allegedly found in Lucia’s pillow cases. Rizal denied having those leaflets because they were thoroughly searched upon their arrival from Hong Kong and was found clean. Despite his denial and insistent demand for investigation he was placed under arrest and escorted to Fort Santiago.
July 15, 1892, Rizal was brought to the steamer Cebu which was sailing for Dapitan. On the 17th of July, Rizal was handed over to Captain Ricardo Carnicero, the commandant of Dapitan. His exile in Dapitan lasted until July 31, 1896, a period of four years.
Dapitan
Rizal stayed in Dapitan for a period of four years. He was suppose to live in the Jesuit Church but insisted on living in the house of Captain Carnicero. The two became close and befriended each other. Carnicero was impressed with the fine qualities and personalities of Rizal.
On September 21, 1892, Rizal won the Manila Lottery with a sum of 6,200 pesos. He shared his winnings to his father and to his friend Basa, and the rest he invested by purchasing agricultural lands.
During his stay in Dapitan, he had debates with Father Pastells about religion. They exchanged views and commented on each other. In spite of their religious differences, Rizal l and Pastells remained good friends.
He was also able to meet again his teacher from Ateneo—Father Sanchez. Father Sanchez was assigned by Father Pastells to persuade Rizal to discard his “errors of religion”. Rizal and Father Sanchez had theological arguments but all efforts of Sanchez were in vain.
Rizal practiced medicine in Dapitan and had many patients. He gave free medicine to the poor. He was also able to operate his mother’s right eye. Rizal was also interested in the use of medicinal plants which he used to some of his poor patients.
Rizal also made a Water System for Dapitan which modern engineers today found it very marvelous. He also became a teacher and taught to the young boys of Dapitan. He even made a project to beautify the town plaza.
Rizal was also a farmer. On his farms, he introduced modern methods of agriculture which he observed in Europe and America. He encourages the Dapitan farmers to discard their primitive system of tillage and adopt the modern methods. He imported some agricultural machinery from the United States.
Rizal had a relationship with Josephine Bracken. They first met when Josephine accompanied his father to the clinic of Rizal. Their relationship lasted for one month until they decided to marry. The two lived happily in Dapitan. They had a son, but only lived for three hours.
On July 31, 1896, Rizal’s exile in Dapitan came to an end. Rizal, together, with Josephine, Narcisa, Angelica and his three nephews and six pupils boarded the steamer España. Almost all the Dapitan townies were at the shore and bid him goodbye.
Last Trip Abroad
August 1, Rizal anchored at Dumaguete. He visited some friends and former classmates. The España left Dumaguete at about 1:00 p.m. and reached Cebu the following morning. Rizal was fascinated by the entrance of Cebu.
On August 3, Rizal left Cebu and continued to Iloilo. Then sailed to Capiz and towards to Romblon until proceeding to Manila.
He missed the ship going to Spain but on the midnight of the same day he was able to right the Spanish cruiser Castilla.
On September 2, Rizal was transferred to the steamer Isla de Panay which was sailing for Barcelona, Spain. The next morning the steamer left Manila Bay.
The steamer arrived at Singapore in the evening of September 7. The passengers including Rizal went shopping and to see some scenery. Rizal observed that there were more Chinese merchants and less Indians. He bought a Chinese gown. Don Pedro and his son stayed at Singapore. He advised Rizal to stay behind too and take advantage of the protection of the British law. But Rizal pursued to Spain. The steamer left Singapore on September 8.
On September 25, he saw the steamer Isla de Luzon, leaving the Suez Canal; it was full of Spanish troops. On September 28, a day after the steamer Isla de Panay left Port Said, a passenger told Rizal that he would be arrested by order of Governor General Blanco and would be sent to prison in Cueta. Shocked by the news, Rizal realized that he was being duped.
Nothing was official yet about his impending arrest. But on September 30, he was officially notified by Captain Alemany that he should stay in his cabin until further orders from Manila. He obeyed orders.
At the same day, the steamer anchored at Malta but he was not able to land. He saw through a small window.
October 3, the Isla de Panay arrived in Barcelona, with Rizal as prisoner on board. Rizal was kept under heavy guard in his cabin for 3 days. On October 4, Rizal noticed the city’s celebration of the feast day of St. Francis of Assisi. At 3:00 a.m. of October 6, Rizal was escorted to the prison-fortress named Monjuich. After his stay at Monjuich, he was transferred to a ship named Colon. Rizal was aboard the Colon which was full of soldiers and officers. On October 6, 8:00 p.m., the ship left Barcelona.
Last Homecoming
On November 3, the Colon reached Manila, where it was greeted by the Spaniards and the friars because it bought more soldiers and supplies. Rizal then was transferred from the ship to Fort Santiago. On November 20, the preliminary investigation began. He was presented with 15 documentary evidences. On November 26, Colonel Olive transmitted the records to institute the corresponding action against Rizal. Rizal was given only the right to choose his defense counsel. He was given a list of lieutenants in the Spanish Army and one name struck his fancy. It was Don Luis Taviel de Andrade, which was the brother of Lt. Jose Taviel de Andrade who became Rizal’s bodyguard in Calamba. December 13, General Camilo G. de Polavieja became the Governor General of the Philippines.
On December 15, Rizal wrote a manifesto to his people too stop the bloodshed and to achieve their liberties by means of education and industry.
On December 25, 1896, was Christmas. Rizal was alone and depressed in his prison cell.
Trial and Death
December 26, was the day of trial of Rizal. His trial is a proof of Spanish injustice and misrule. His case was prejudged, he was considered guilty before the actual trial. The court did not give him justice, but accused and condemn him. It accepted all charges and testimonies against him and ignored all arguments and proofs in his favor.
After a short deliberation, the military court unanimously voted for the sentence of death. Immediately, Polavieja sought the opinion of the Judge Advocate. He latter affirmed the death verdict.
On December 28, Polavieja approved the decision of the court-martial and ordered Rizal to be shot at 7:00 o’clock in the morning of December 30 at Bagumbayan Field.
December 29, 1896, Rizal was visited by some family members including his beloved Josephine, some Jesuit priests, a Spanish newspaper correspondent, and some of his friends. He also finished his last poem and hid it in an alcohol cooking stove. At the same time he wrote his farewell letter to his best friend.
The following day, he heard the mass and confessed his sins. Rizal bade goodbye to Josephine and gave her a last gift which was a religious book entitled Imitation of Christ in which he autographed.
6:30 A.M., a trumpet sounded at Fort Santiago. The soldiers aligned formations and moved to their designated place for the execution. Rizal was dressed in black suit, a black derby hat, black shoes, white shirt and a black tie.
One of the priests blessed him and offered him a crucifix to kiss. Rizal reverently bowed his head and kissed it. Then he requested the firing squad commander that he’d be shot facing the firing squad but his request was denied. Unwillingly, Rizal turned his back to the firing squad and faced the sea. Rizal was not afraid to die.
The death ruffles of the drum filled the air. Above the drum-beats, the sharp command “Fire” was heard, and the guns of the firing squad shoot Rizal. It was exactly 7:03 in the morning. Rizal fell on the ground and dead with his face upward facing the morning sun.
Ending Remarks
After reading the life of Rizal, I am deeply inspired by his genius and his love for country. Although my article is quite difficult to make and patch-up, everything is worth it. I am no longer feeling awkward being a Filipino not knowing about the life of Rizal.
I personally like studying history. During my high school, I was greatly interested when my teacher started talking about the life back then. We learned about the history of the Chinese, the Greeks, or particularly the history of the World and all the people involved in it. I was impressed by their culture and their works. Not to know, we also have someone who is very interesting, very intelligent, nationalistic, and most of all he was a Filipino. Rizal is someone whom I can be proud of as a Filipino.
During the process of this article, I was amazed, inspired, sad and happy. Reading the life of Rizal is truly something. I learned about the different places and the culture of the countries he visited during that time. Even though this is just for a requirement (and might get a low rating for it), I am still satisfied and happy because I was able to read through the life of Rizal and his travels.
Rizal as a traveler was not merely a spectator he was very observant of the lifestyle of the people. This was evident through his diary entries wherein he wrote his observations of culture and other things. Rizal knew how to live in a country away from his. He was able to economize and budget his fees, he also works through his free time to earn money. During the travel of Rizal, he met a lot of people and not just mere people but professionals including professors and doctors. He was also a smart traveler because he learns the language of the country he stays. This made him communicate effectively.
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